Roadrace To Drag Race Project-Lend A Hand

BMR Tech

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And I definitely see your point about the gearing.

I am unsure of the available options, if any. Brian would be better suited to answer that stuff. I just know they work well.

Maybe the reason JD cuts such great sixties, is somewhat due to the gear ratio. I dunno.

All I know is, the car has all of our off the shelf parts, a 4R100, and footbrakes to consistent 1.2's at over 3500lbs on the MT Pro. lol
 

psfracer

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Well it works, there is no doubt about that.

Looks like Gmitch has some homework to do and decide how far he wants to take this. I do like the Keep It Simple Method, and to retain the 3 link suspension while running a M/T 275 Pro seems like a path that no only works, but would be friendly to the wallet.

As far as the cost of the trans, the 4R100 would only be about $1K more expensive, but then you have OD, albeit at a higher weight. But if he wants to make this a "drag week" car, then the OD would be worth the extra weight.
 

psfracer

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I don't think anyone has ever questioned the strength/quality of BMR parts. Hell thats all I ran when I had the 3 link, and I still run their anti-roll bar and their K-member / a-arms.
 

Department Of Boost

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Well it works, there is no doubt about that.

Looks like Gmitch has some homework to do and decide how far he wants to take this. I do like the Keep It Simple Method, and to retain the 3 link suspension while running a M/T 275 Pro seems like a path that no only works, but would be friendly to the wallet.

As far as the cost of the trans, the 4R100 would only be about $1K more expensive, but then you have OD, albeit at a higher weight. But if he wants to make this a "drag week" car, then the OD would be worth the extra weight.

Yep, some heavy duty homework. The only thing that has me really “stumped” at this point is what to do about a trans. I am leaning toward a T400 though. Just to keep it nice and simple. But A OD sure would be nice. I have plenty of time to decide so I’ll poke around for the rest of the summer and collect ideas.

The rest of the stuff is pretty simple. I’m pretty sure I’ll just stick with bolt on suspension stuff (BMR), bolt in 9” (not sure what locker though). BOSS block with big heads and cams, big headers, 3.5 or 4” exhaust, Racepack dash/data system, 8.50 cage.

And now I can finally put a big fat cowl hood on the car!

Are these the 275 Pro’s you’re talking about?

http://www.jegs.com/p/Mickey-Thompson/Mickey-Thompson-ET-Street-Radial-Pro-Drag-Tires/1929010/10002/-1

They seem plenty wide enough, but short. Is there something taller in a DR? I may run DR’s on the street and slicks on the track. What are you running?

I haven't been this excited about my car in years!:clap: And just think, I get to put a roadrace car together too (assuming I don't sell all my RR stuff and just rent track cars).
 

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Yes that is the one.

The tire I use is a 29.5X10.5WX15

IF I were to drive this on the street (like if I moved to Montana), I would use a 315/60/15 M/T DR. Both tires are pretty tall, which is why I mini tubbed the car. So I could run the tall tire yet avoid the 4X4 look, and have the tire go under the car vs the car sit on top of the tire.
 

BMR Tech

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Paul, the stance of your car is just so effing awesome man...

Gmitch, please make your car sit exactly like Pauls.
 

Department Of Boost

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Yes that is the one.

The tire I use is a 29.5X10.5WX15

IF I were to drive this on the street (like if I moved to Montana), I would use a 315/60/15 M/T DR. Both tires are pretty tall, which is why I mini tubbed the car. So I could run the tall tire yet avoid the 4X4 look, and have the tire go under the car vs the car sit on top of the tire.

Man, you're killing me! Maybe I will mini tub the car. I hate that 4x4 look......HATE IT!

Paul, the stance of your car is just so effing awesome man...

Gmitch, please make your car sit exactly like Pauls.

Yeah, his car sits perfect. Absolutely perfect.

I may just have to do this......................
 

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One thing you have to consider is: is there any rules on tire size in the classes you will be racing? The 275 tire is about the most popular tire right now in a variety of classes.
 

Department Of Boost

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One thing you have to consider is: is there any rules on tire size in the classes you will be racing? The 275 tire is about the most popular tire right now in a variety of classes.

Rules? Racing?:roflmao:

Yeah, I should probably think about that stuff. But I doubt I'll be racing it that much, if ever. Those 275 guys will hand me my ass as long as I want it to be a street car too. All I really want to do is run it at the track once a month or so, do some wheelies and drive it to cruise in's and stuff every once in a while.

But I should probably make sure it will fit in a class. What is a good 8.50 and up class (all my cage will be good for) to look into? I really no nothing about the drag classes.
 

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There is a very popular 8.50 index class. Out here in CA its B/Gas, or an 8.60 index class.

To the spectator, it "looks" like a heads up class as the cars get the green at the same time. But you can't run an 8.49, you have to run as close to an 8.50 without going over, like the price is right.

The advantage to this class is you can build whatever you want, weigh what you want, use whatever tire you want, just run as close to 8.50 as possible.

Here is an example of some 8.50 cars:

 

stkjock

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There is a very popular 8.50 index class. Out here in CA its B/Gas, or an 8.60 index class.

To the spectator, it "looks" like a heads up class as the cars get the green at the same time. But you can't run an 8.49, you have to run as close to an 8.50 without going over, like the price is right.

don't you mean under 8.50?
 

dysan

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There is a very popular 8.50 index class. Out here in CA its B/Gas, or an 8.60 index class.

To the spectator, it "looks" like a heads up class as the cars get the green at the same time. But you can't run an 8.49, you have to run as close to an 8.50 without going over, like the price is right.

The advantage to this class is you can build whatever you want, weigh what you want, use whatever tire you want, just run as close to 8.50 as possible.

Actually out here in the Northeast there are a few rules for the 8.50 index races...there is a minimum weight, max tire size...etc. Here are the rules from my local track which follows the rules from Cecil which is the video you linked.

8.50 Index-1/4 mile all run up to 32 cars qualified field
1. .400 Pro tree heads up with a 7 second auto start
2. Minimum weight 2800 lbs
3. Deep staging permitted but auto start will be on at all times—courtesy staging advised
4. Full bodied street appearing cars only—no roadsters, altered or dragsters
5. Lettering allowed on windows only
6. No full round or square tube chassis
7. Stock style front suspension (bolt on aftermarket parts accepted)
8. Tran brake and two step allowed
9. Throttle stops/controllers, delay boxes/devices are Prohibited
10. Automatic shifters prohibited
11. Mufflers mandatory—turbos are considered mufflers
12. Car and driver must meet all NHRA and track safety rules
13. Gasoline or alcohol only (Nitro is prohibited)
14. Max tire size of 33 x 10.5w
15. NHRA Pro ladder
16. All entries must be driven under own power from shutdown to scales—towing everywhere else is permitted—this is appreciated but not mandatory.
 

psfracer

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Actually we also have rules 1,8,9,10. I like rule #4. Rule 12 is always assumed out here, as all of our tracks are NHRA.

There was a need for rule 13? Now who tried to run nitro for an 8.50 car?

Curious about the minimum weight, all though if you look at #4, I guess they would go hand in hand.
 

dysan

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Actually we also have rules 1,8,9,10. I like rule #4. Rule 12 is always assumed out here, as all of our tracks are NHRA.

There was a need for rule 13? Now who tried to run nitro for an 8.50 car?

Curious about the minimum weight, all though if you look at #4, I guess they would go hand in hand.

The weight thing is not too difficult to get below depending on the car used..there is a car my engine builder is working on right now (a Vega) that runs in super street (10.90 class) and it is well below 2800. They have to add 200lbs to the car for it to be legal and it is still a stock chassis.
 

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Ok drag race dudes. I’ve seen this done, but really only on “race cars”.

Since I will be pretty much stripping the car down to the chassis when I do the conversion I was thinking about cutting the trans tunnel out and putting a “removable” one in there so if I have to do trans work, etc I can just unbolt it and get to everything real easy. I would of course seal it all up so when its being driven it doesn’t murder me. I’m thinking of making it out of aluminum so it’s light too. It’s kind of a “two fer”.

Thoughts?
 

BMR Tech

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Thoughts?

My thought is, do it.

If you are really cool, like us, you will make yours from Titanium. Ours is. ;)
 

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