swflastang05's build thread

[swflastang05]

Nice collection of tags, and I like the car they came off.

Thanks me too!

On another note I ordered a lean protection module from MD Racing, it arrived a few days ago and I started installing it shortly thereafter. The install is pretty straight forward, just your usual wires including 12v, ground, ignition and 12v with key and cranking, wideband 5v input and TPS. I ended up installing the module in the glove box, got the ignition wires under the BEC (red) and TPS at the throttle pedal (white). After all that it didn't work, but I found the voltage was dropping below 9 volts while cranking, which is probably why, so I'll let the battery charge over night and try again tomorrow. It seems like a good well made, piece, it's a little pricey at $400 and the programming is a little complex, but over all it will be well worth it if it works even just one time! You can set it to shut the motor off instantly at any given AFR value, for example I will probably set mine at 11.8, if my motor ever goes above 11.8 for any reason while under wot it will shut down and prevent it from melting! Even a dirty fuel filter could ruin a motor, so this is money well spent IMO. Ill report how it works after I charge my batt and test it a few times. Here's a couple pics



Here's the ignition wires that feed the COP's located in the harness closest to the battery cable on the bottom of the BEC


Installed


After I get this dialed in and ready to activate if needed, I'll be switching to a new pulley on my SC, which will spin it up to 74k rpm, should be 25+ psi, add to that improving weather in the coming weeks and months, should be some good times at the track! If nothing else the LPM will provide some peace of mind while tuning for the new pulley.

 

[swflastang05]

A little update, after battling some electrical issues after installing the LPM I figured out the ground wire I ran to the battery for the LPM and my widebands was too small, I upgraded to an 8 awg wire and resolved the electrical issues. One of the issues that was causing though made my widebands read lean, so just to make sure I checked all the plugs and they were all fine with the exception of one #6 that had some oil on it (not from being lean, a different issue). I did a leak down test and got 4% reading, BIG sigh of relief lol, then determined it must be the valve seals. I ordered 3 new ones from Tasca and installed them last weekend, went for a test drive and while there was a lot less oil, there still was some. After talking to my machinist, he suggested upgrading my breather lines, I was running -8an lines to the catch cans and he suggested at least -10an, or maybe even -12an, I opted for the -12an, installed them over the past few days as parts came in and went for a test drive today and it worked! No more oil on #6! Needless to say I'm very pleased with this outcome, I was a little skeptical, especially since -12an lines are not cheap, but it worked. Here's a few pics:

I had to drill and tap the bungs on my catch cans, luckily they were large enough. 1/2 npt to -12an fitting


The -12an lines are way bigger!


-12an end next to -8an fitting


A 3/4 npt bung was welded onto the PS valve cover:


3/4 npt to -12an fitting


All plumbed in, lines run to the catch cans which are behind the bumper cover on the PS frame rail. The DS valve cover fitting was already previously tapped to 7/8-14 / -10an, so a -10an o-ring to -12an adaptor fitting was used to make the connection.


Now back to calibrating the LPM..

 

[o2sys]

Does vapor/smoke come out of the filter on your breather can?

 

[swflastang05]

Does vapor/smoke come out of the filter on your breather can?

Yes I've seen that before, when it was heat soaked. Doesn't do it all the time though, I haven't seen it at all since the -12an upgrade.

 

[swflastang05]

I'm resurrecting this thread again, since today was bitter sweet. I was running Mod Muscle at the NMRA race in Bradenton then in qualifying round #2 as I went through the traps I looked in the rear view and saw a smoke screen. When I stopped the car I found antifreeze everywhere under the hood and under neath the car, it could have been much worse if it got under the tires, I'm grateful that it didn't. The sweet part is I ran a new PB in the process 9.55 @ 146mph, and with an extremely crappy 60 foot (1.60), so there is still much room to improve when this driver gets more seat time.

Now I get to do some testing and pull the motor again. It still runs but with a hell of a miss, sounds like it has a really nasty cam lol. I wanna say it just popped a head gasket but we all know that's extremely rare with a 3v. I can see antifreeze dripping out under the motor somewhere on the DS, kind of by the motor mount but it's behind the header so I can't really see it good to confirm where it's coming from for sure, I just hope I didn't break another block. Tomorrow I'm planning to unload everything then jack the car up so I can get a good look at what's going on, then most likely go ahead and pull the motor. Here we go again!

 

[weather man]

Shoot

 

[05stroker]

That sucks! One question though, why are you running antifreeze?

 

[skwerl]

Hopefully it's one of the heater lines in the engine valley.

 

[05stroker]

Hopefully it's one of the heater lines in the engine valley.

Yea, but that won't make it run rough. Ive had a couple issues with the kids car and those damn hoses under the DOB intake.

 

[Scott]

OUCH Kyle, I am keeping my fingers crossed that it is nothing serious but the miss is worrisome.

 

[travelers]

^^^ Me to, hope it not serious. I'm surprised your running anti-freeze. I know during competition events they don't allow anti-freeze because it's harder to clean up then water.

Congrats on the 9.55.

 

[swflastang05]

Thanks for the good wishes, but today I confirmed the worst happened, again, it ate another block, WTF! This is now the 3rd block that failed on me, granted the first two may have been a combination of my machinist and my fault due to improper head stud installation issues, however there is zero % chance that happened again. This time there's a horizontal crack the runs about mid block beginning under #6 then goes back through #7, #8 and around the back side of the block above the rear cover. This time is much worse than the other failures, water came pouring out of the intake when I pulled it, yikes! I managed to pull the motor today, then tear it down to block and heads, hopefully I'll have time to pull the heads after work tomorrow to see what I've got. It did run when I pulled it, just very rough and with lots of white smoke. I have another 3v block, but IDK if want to build one of those again, I know there's lots of guys out there running a lot more power than me with aluminum blocks but I just don't know, this shit is getting old. I'm thinking about maybe going with a Boss block this time, as much as I don't want the extra weight, I'm thinking I can make more than enough extra power to compensate, then hopefully not have to deal with this BS again.

It's kind of hard to see in the pics but the crack runs just above the horizontal support then under and around that threaded plug area, water pours out of this crack when the motor is running.


Here's the crack on the back


Milkshake anyone?


I've got to figure out why this happened, it makes no sense at all. All the valves appears to be okay after pulling the valve covers, all looks normal there. Hopefully the RTA is okay. The AFR was perfect right before this happened, I looked at the gauges and saw 11.5 - 11.6, maybe a timing issue? Shouldn't be with e85 so IDK.

 

[travelers]

How much boost are you running?

 

[05stroker]

I would be interested to see the crank journals and main bearings.

 

[46addict]

I finished the Right head today! Here's a few pics. If all goes well I'll finish the Left side and cc them both this weekend. Then off to the machine shop for a nice valve job and decking. Still waiting on those darn pistons! It's been 2+ months! Supposedly they shipped today, so maybe they'll show up Monday. My cams, springs and lockout's should arrive sometime next week too. The machine shop has about a 2 week backlog, so if all goes well I should have everything ready to assemble early in July. Although I'll be on vacation then so IDK~!

http://s1275.photobucket.com/user/s... Uploads/20140611_174447_zpsiioskioe.jpg.html

http://s1275.photobucket.com/user/s... Uploads/20140611_174530_zpsvyb5wofx.jpg.html

I didn't read through the whole thread but what did you use for the deburring/polishing job?

 

[swflastang05]

How much boost are you running?

19 - 20 lbs.

I would be interested to see the crank journals and main bearings.

Me too, we'll both get to see them soon,

I didn't read through the whole thread but what did you use for the deburring/polishing job?

just the usual suspects wide pattern carbide bits and sandpaper rolls

 

[swflastang05]

Okay I pulled the heads and tore the motor down today after work, results are in, I have one extremely effed up head gasket, one melted piston and one annihilated block! WTF how the heck did this happen! Or the million dollar question what happened first, did the piston melt, head gasket melt / pop or block split in half first? and why?

#8. This resulted in 20 psi being pumped into the coolant system


cracked b/w every bore 5/6 6/7 7/8


melted #8 piston


cracked block exterior highlighted in white


Good news is everything else is okay including the crank, rods, and 7 other pistons (apparently). The heads look okay from visual inspection. So what could cause this? Bad e85? I test it every time before pouring into the tank, it's usually 82% ethanol including this fill up. Detonation? Lean condition? Neither one could do this much damage by itself IMO so IDK. One thing that's bugging me is I was locking up the torque convertor the top half of 3rd gear on these passes, then when I lift after crossing the traps it's kind of violent, using the engine and locked convertor to slow the car down before I hit the brakes and free it, I wonder if that has anything to do with this? I doubt it but it does have me curious.

Then the next question, do I just order a new piston and bring my spare block to the machine shop and build another OEM block 3v and hope for the best or upgrade to a big bore boss block, I have to buy at least one piston anyway, what else is needed to swap to a boss block? motor mounts, side bolts for the mains and new pistons, anything else? Many decisions to make here..

 

[roberts]

Or sell me your crank! I'm looking for one. Just pm me the info on it!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[05stroker]

What head gaskets are those? They look stock, are they std 3v gaskets?

 

[86GT351]

Who is doing your machine work for you? Have you contacted Tim at MPR? He is on Boynton Beach and is a Mod Motor Specialist. 561-588-0188