What have you done to your mustang today?

Discussion in 'Mustang Chit Chat' started by *JZ*, Mar 18, 2011.

  1. xxsurvivalism

    xxsurvivalism Junior Member

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    I was a little nervous about the +30 offset, especially after reading forum articles about wheels being +40 - +55 offset in the back and some gross ass weird offsets in the front making the wheels looking almost completely flat lol.

    I haven't heard a tire rub all day!
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    Last edited: Apr 21, 2021
  2. stkjock

    stkjock ---- Madmin ---- Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator S197 Team Member

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    As long as u like the way it looks. To me I’d never drive a car with a set up like that ^^^
     
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  3. Midlife Crises

    Midlife Crises Senior Member

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    Messing around in preparation to replace the front seats in the GT. Going to Braum Racing high back seats, I will loose the airbags in the seats and I want the dash bags to remain operational. I unplugged the airbag connector under the drivers seat and plugged a 1/2 watt 2 Ohm resister into the chassis harness. When I start the car, everything is clear and it appears the system is operational. I will do the passenger side next.

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  4. Gabe

    Gabe Whippled Coyote

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    Chilly but beautiful day coming up, so taking this thing to work. Still burning 6-month old gas, but knowing me, that won't be for much longer, lol

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  5. Norm Peterson

    Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter

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    A little 'poke' can't be avoided when you're running 11" wide wheels up front for the corners. The picture below is running at an effective offset somewhere around +35 (there's a thin spacer involved). I'd probably have to go to +30 if I went from 285s up to 305s.

    On the matter of appearance, it looks just as 'right' to another track day regular as big M&Hs out back with skinnies up front look to a drag racer.

    Sneak Preview 800x600 web.jpg


    Norm
     
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  6. Racer47

    Racer47 Doesn't have much to say S197 Team Member

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    Thats not true at all. I'm running 315s on 11s up front and 335s on 12s in the back and they fit inside the fenders.

    I'm not a fan of stretched tires with the wheels sticking out but thats a style thing. I'm a fan of performance.

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    Now this is a tire!! trie.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2021
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  7. Silver'nStripes

    Silver'nStripes Member

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    More progress on the roll bar. Rear seat supports got wrapped up last night, no pics of those yet. Door bars next!

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  8. EBABlacknChrome

    EBABlacknChrome forum member

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    That's a big ass tire! I like it though and my guess is you're very limited in rim options.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
     
  9. stkjock

    stkjock ---- Madmin ---- Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator S197 Team Member

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    IIRC, those are Forgestars from Vorshlag, they worked out the perfect fitment on 11" wide wheels, they don't share the info on the BS/offset either.
     
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  10. Norm Peterson

    Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter

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    That suggests to me Cortex's struts or similar with slightly greater strut body to knuckle offset. Cortex was unknown to me at the time I was shopping for better dampers than OE.

    In the picture I posted of my RF corner, there was at most 1.5mm clearance between either the wheel or the tire to the standard Koni yellow strut body. And on that RF corner I had to make up a shim-thickness spacer out of 0.025" aluminum sheet to even get that much.

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    It doesn't rub, but there's no way the front wheels could be brought any further under the fenders. The 'stretch comes from MPSS not being available wider than 285/35 in 18". Supposedly there's a 295/35-18 now, which would require more spacer thickness.


    Norm
     
  11. Racer47

    Racer47 Doesn't have much to say S197 Team Member

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    Yes they are Forgestars from Vorshlag. Those guys do their homework and get stuff done right. Although you can buy other 18x11's or 19x11's with more offset and then work with spacers to get what you need.

    Norm you have a very limited range of experience with these cars. You're a smart guy and I don't like arguing with you but you need to realize there are many more options available than your konis, your wheels and your narrow 285s. I'm tired of your same front tire pic, the same strut pics, the repeating of the same info over and over as if there are no other variations possible. No, I do not have cortex struts. There are many others that work. There are also several camber plate options. Getting 315s to fit correctly took some effort but obviously its doable.

    Just one more pic that I don't think I've posted here before and its keeps up with the Vorshlag tradition of posting tire stacks. My tire stack is taller than the car. Thats a piece of 2x4 on the roof to make it level. Plus the car is on my street tires which are bigger diameter (= higher roof) than the Hoosiers.

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    Last edited: Apr 22, 2021
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  12. Norm Peterson

    Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter

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    Well, when I'm using every bit of room on the strut side and the wheels and tires still poke out past the fender, and somebody else claims to be able to make it all actually fit underneath . . . there just has to be something else going on. And tires wider than 285 would if anything make the amount of 'poke' even greater. That much doesn't need hands-on experience with a wider array of parts from different suppliers.

    The only thing I can think of (other than some expertly done bodywork) involves strut offset, and Cortex is the only source that I know of at this point. Am I wrong?


    Tell you what, if/when I make the move to wider front tires I'll take a new batch of pictures.


    Norm
     
  13. Racer47

    Racer47 Doesn't have much to say S197 Team Member

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    Yes you are wrong. And yes you need a wider range of hands on experience because your thinking is limited. And no my body work is all stock.

    Lets start at the top with your strut hole. Make it bigger. Buy some good camber plates. Max out the camber. Now for the strut, slot the holes and/or get camber bolts. Adjust it such that you are back to your original camber. Now you will have about 1/2" of additional strut clearance. Buy wheels with an addtional 1/2" offset. Buy 305 tires. Take new pics and call it good.
     
  14. Norm Peterson

    Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter

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    Let's just say that what I've written is a good bit more limited than my understanding and leave it at that.


    The big strut hole isn't the limiting factor. Just why, I don't know, but FWIW the car's as-delivered camber settings were right around -1.7° against Ford's -1.5° max-negative number. I have Steeda's HD strut mounts, which claim ±1° camber adjustability. But I've only been able to get to -2.0°, just barely. There is spring to tower clearance (OE-style springs), maybe as much as half an inch, but something is making for a hard limit against further camber adjustment. Not that -2° is a terrible place for a true dual-purpose car (and perhaps more representative of the average 90% street 10% HPDE car even though that's way too mild for hardcore competition).


    If I was getting full adjustment at the mounts, slotting the holes (or simply drilling new ones) would make sense. I've done this exact mod before on at least one other car, but it's not worth doing on the Mustang until I can find out why I can't get past -2.0° as it is. I did slot the hole where I could pry against the mount's little pointy tab.

    For me at least, aftermarket camber bolts/crash bolts are a non-starter. Keep in mind that my '08 came with the early coarse-thread strut to knuckle fasteners and the early knuckle design. The arrangement that produced a number of knuckle failures in autocross and track driving that was traced back to insufficient clamp load, that in turn called for stronger fasteners (which I now have) and a knuckle design having a slightly thicker (0.020"?) strut mounting pad thickness. But once again, I've addressed camber adjustability at the knuckle before as well, so I'm familiar with what's going on.


    Don't forget that the poke I'm getting is with -2° camber already. Not Ford's preferred setting of -0.75°, or even their -1.5° max-negative.

    If I can somehow get another half inch at the strut mount, that's only about half an inch at the tire, which would put it pretty darn close to flush. I'd have more negative camber (roughly another whole degree) but as that only puts the tires flush there isn't any room to dial camber back down to -2° at the knuckle (if dialing it that far back was what I wanted to do) without pushing the tires back out past the fenders.



    I suppose it's possible that a coilover setup would make this all easier, except that I don't think that good coilovers in year-round street duty in the Northeast is a particularly good idea. Cheap coilovers be an even worse one.


    Norm
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2021
  15. Racer47

    Racer47 Doesn't have much to say S197 Team Member

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    The strut hole and your lack of real camber plates are limiting factors. You still don't seem to get it. But whatever, just stop repeating the false info that 285s are the limit, 11's will poke and "there's no way the front wheels could be brought any further under the fender" because clearly they can be, maybe not by you, but that doesn't mean its not possible. Additionally, everything I've done works extremely well, is very fast and entirely streetable. trophies.jpg
     
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  16. Aerofinz

    Aerofinz Member

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  17. Midlife Crises

    Midlife Crises Senior Member

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    Follow up on using resisters to turn off the airbag light when unhooking the front seat airbags on a 2010 GT. The 1/2 watt 2 Ohm resister works on the passenger side as well. :)
     
  18. Sactown

    Sactown Sactown

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    let me think. Over the last couple of weeks have installed: Strange light weight drag rotors, calipers, and wheel hubs, strange spool, converted back to 12v system from 16v (hated charging the car between passes) and the new Race Craft double adjustable LCAs just arrived today.

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  19. Midlife Crises

    Midlife Crises Senior Member

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    Just finished the install of Braum Racing Elite R seats. No seat airbags and the resisters I added make the system think everything is normal. I did use the proximity sensor under the drivers seat and the factory seatbelts are fully functional. Also removed the bladder from the stock passenger seat and slipped it into the new seat. What a bitch getting the bladder out of the original seat. 5 point harnesses are mounted but not yet trimmed.

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  20. Dino Dino Bambino

    Dino Dino Bambino I have a red car

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    Decided to check my driver's side catch can since I installed it some 4000km ago. There was about 40cc of oil in it or roughly 10cc per 1000km. Proof that my $25 Chinese eBay catch can with Scotch Brite scouring pad as a filter medium really does work (no need to spend over $100 to buy one). Much better than having 40cc of oil coating the inside of the intake manifold and the back of the intake valves that's for sure! The CMCVs would have been coated too if I hadn't already deleted them seven years ago.
    My engine has 94k miles and the dipstick oil level hardly moves over a 5000 mile oil change interval (full synthetic).

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    Last edited: May 8, 2021
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