What have you done to your mustang today?

[GlassTop09]

Replaced worn out front brake pad hardware on both front calipers (lost hardware on LF side somehow.......hear pads clicking when brakes were applied........so I just replaced all of it) to quiet her up & while I had the RF wheel off, I also installed my new 8 awg fuel pump power wire upgrade kit (shout out to JeremyH for this kit! FYI Jeremy, the 15' of 8 awg wire was plenty long enough to reach FPDM from the BEC + terminal I also dropped a 30A fuse in to ensure I stay off the FPDM's overamp protection so the FPDM has 30A of current @ 14.2v available) so this should handle any current & future fueling needs.

Now that this wiring upgrade is installed, new FoMoCo OEM fuel pump hat assembly will be next (when it gets a little warmer......bbbrrrr).

Didn't get prior numbers but FRP holds pretty constant between 39.8-40.5 at idle w\ FPDC constant @ 23.12%-23.90%. Blipped throttle a couple of times to see FRP response........FRP went to 50.2-52.1 psi immediately so very good response time.

I ran the 8 awg wire to cover any current & future power needs to the FPDM to run a single pump so a BAP wouldn't be needed if I do eventually break down & go FI (can go up to 50A easily & safely).

Now time for some R&R to recover (back, neck, hips, knees are hurting something fierce right now).

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Replaced the passenger side door jamb switch today with a new OEM part that I'd bought from Rockauto.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...ectrical-switch+&+relay,door+jamb+switch,4360

I'd diagnosed a faulty switch from a combination of the following symptoms when opening the passenger door:

1. The window would stay up instead of automatically doing the short drop. I had to lower the window slightly using the electric window switch, then close the door, and then raise the window again.
2. The interior lights wouldn't come on.
3. The ICE system wouldn't shut off.
4. The warning "passenger door ajar" wouldn't appear in the instrument cluster display.

It was as if the ECU thought the door was closed even though it was open.

The procedure was surprisingly easy thanks to this excellent video:

Thankfully Ford was thoughtful enough to use 7mm screws to fix the door panel to the door instead of a bunch of break-prone plastic clips.
It's great to have the short window drop working normally again.

 

[Midlife Crises]

I spent the day degreing camshafts. Very tedious job trying to get repeatable measurements on both cams. Adjusted valve timing with MMR gears and verified the numbers then put the gears on an old crank and welded them together. After cleanup I installed the timing set and verified the numbers again. Also installed MMR billet tensioners with the ratchet teeth ground off. To achieve the recommenced intake lobe center I had to advance the left cam 2* and the right cam 4*. Happy to have this part of the project completed.

 

[Midlife Crises]

Installed the front cover and a innovative west 10% overdrive damper.

 

[Laga]

Tried to replace front wheel bearing hubs on my 05. Passenger side was developing play in it.
Hubs were easy to find, but the locking nuts were not, I did find this however.
The original part number was replaced with a new one. The new one is available everywhere, so that’s what I ordered.
Of course the new nut doesn’t fit. The treads are different and overall diameter is smaller. Along with the fact that the original is a two piece design where the nut rotated on the washer, and the new one is one solid piece. Now I have to find some place that has the old part number and won’t replace it with the new part number when you try to order it.
Which is what I ran into originally.
The nuts are single use parts. Once you remove them, they are to be discarded. I’m going to try the local Ford dealership first thing tomorrow. Maybe they have the nuts under a different application. The original part number does come up under some Lincoln models.
It appears Ford used different spindles on some of the first year 05’s. When I installed the Wilwood brakes about 2 years ago, the offset of the hats didn’t fit the spindles and needed to be changed. Wilwood said it’s rare but happens. Now, the nuts don’t fit.


Old vs New.

 

[Laga]

The local Ford dealer found one in Wisconsin. Says he should be able to find a second. Every domestic Ford part site replaces old number with new part number. Ford sites in Nicaragua, Montenegro, and Seychelles have them in stock. Amazon has something with same part number, but lists it for a 2002 Town Car. going to order that as a "plan B". I can always return it.

 

[teeje]

Relocated the intake for my Kennebell. Honestly don't care of the slight increase of IATS they claim people would have as I have a gt500 front end. My bumper was smashing the filter. Not only that, was getting hit by water and dirt. Aluminum pipe, tig welded and wrapped in fiber tape

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

 

[Midlife Crises]

Spent the last few days running cables and putting a battery box in the trunk. #1 cable from battery to switch and then to a stud mounted where the battery used to be. #4 cable from the stud to the starter and another #4 to the original fuze box. Also added an accessory relay and fuze box to control pumps, fans and electronics. The ground cable is #1 also and runs direct from the battery to the engine mount. There is one #4 chassis ground from engine to strut tower and the original on the back of the block. I will add another chassis ground in the trunk. The alternator is #4, direct to the isolation switch and will open with the switch. The alternator wire is also fuzed at both ends. The main positive is fuzed at the battery box.

 

[Midlife Crises]

More fun stuff. The battery box is mounted to what you could call a frame rail.

 

[Midlife Crises]

I was able to mix and match enough idlers to get a belt to fit with good tension

 

[Midlife Crises]

And then there is this beast. I was going to mount this vacuum pump in the old battery location. I did not realize it is damn near the size of a battery. I think it will fit down by the core support or frame rail.

 

[ghunt81]

Not today but the past two weeks I stripped the rear seat area and trunk and got the last few spots I missed last year with sound deadener (mainly under the rear seat, and the rear shelf area which I think will make a big difference). Also have some foam insulation to throw in a couple spots, then I need to change the oil and do a leak test to see where I still have water getting in...then it's out for the summer!

 

[crjackson]

And then there is this beast. I was going to mount this vacuum pump in the old battery location. I did not realize it is damn near the size of a battery. I think it will fit down by the core support or frame rail.

Why do you need the vacuum pump? Just curious.

 

[Midlife Crises]

Why

I have installed more aggressive cams from L&M engines and was told I would need a low vacuum actuator for the blower bypass and a vacuum pump for the break booster. Makes sense to me so I’m following the cam manufactures recommendation. Already installed the actuator on the blower. It’s just like the original except it has no spring to hold the bypass valve closed.

 

[kazman59]

Installed these...

 

[Juice]

Track day prep begins today for Summit point, 5/6.
Oil & filter, remove boss oil cooler, mount new tires. Cannot install brakes, as I have track only EBC blues going on. May put on the rear EBC yellows.
Exhaust inspection to avoid trackside repairs, there is a bit of updates I have planned- may not happen before this event.

For those that are saying, why remove the oil cooler. It does not much for oil temps, worth maybe 10*. It also drove coolant temps up near top speed on WGI's long back straight coming into the busstop. It is simply not needed for 30 min and shorter sessions.

 

[Midlife Crises]

Trying to figure out why my driveshaft has become such a bear to remove. Almost as if it were too long. Discovered the slip yoke binding on the tail shaft, preventing full depth engagement. I can see the splines inside the yoke are twisted at about 4” inside. Can’t see the tail shaft without removing the housing so I’ll test fit the new yoke for full travel when it arrives.
Fired the engine for the first time with the new cams. Even without a new tune it lit right off and idled without messing with the throttle. Warmed it up, looking for leaks and burning the finger prints off the headers. Nasty idle, I’m in love! Time to put an exhaust system on it and contact Lito.

 

[golkhl]

Getting Bullitt ready for yearly smog check.

 

[scramblr]

Paid extra for IUP 16 years ago just to downgrade. LOL... Change just for change. I kinda like it. Oh, and swapped out the steering wheel a week ago.

 

[Jordan]

Bought some used BBK LTH and BBK offload x pipe. Got a killer deal for them, the guy bought them and installed them new from American Muscle in April. But decided to go with a turbo set up and needed them gone. Saw a lot of pictures and even videos of the process of them being taken off and boxed up. Shipped today, so should be getting them by the end of the week! Hoping to have installed this time next week.

This is a little later but I got the headers installed and they're amazing. Just bought the Paxton Novi 1200 and about to install it.