Joe combs
Member
I took it out for a drive and beat on it some...
What have you done to your mustang today?
- Thread starter *JZ*
- Start date
Shotokan1509
Senior Member
Long overdue stockpile, . BMR K-member, gt500 control arms, Koni sport struts, Maximum motorsports caster/camber plates, Shelby bumpsteer kit, replaced cut rear bumpstops with frpp's. All handles better but do feel more vibrations at low speed and particular the starter from the motormounts. Plan to add A-arm brace (had CHE k-member brace with tq limiters, can be made to fit but probably just sell it), and considering rad support and brace. Rear is already Watts link, LCA, LCA bracket, adj UCA, sway bar with billet links, and K-springs & Koni sport shocks. Front already had K springs, swaybar with billet mounts and strano links, traded out Tokico d-specs.
white95
boost or bust
I’ll take one of each
Mach2burnout
05 Redfire GT
white95
boost or bust
Mach2burnout
05 Redfire GT
I purchased another Mustang!
The jury is out on if it was a mistake or not!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The jury is out on if it was a mistake or not!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
AztroRover
Junior Member
Awesome day, finally leveled out my Mustang, it's had the high tail look, three fingers from the tire to the fender up front, but a full closed fist between the tire and the fender on the back before. Now 3 fingers space all the way around! How? Roush blue springs (1/2 drop), KYB shocks, added the Shelby rear shock bar, and added the OEM Ford rear sway bar, as mine didn't come with one, despite being it having the Pony Package, Cross drilled discs on all fours. It's a weekend cruiser first and foremost, but I get spirited on winding roads to Julian for pie!
Andrey Sidorov
Member
Took the valve cover of for notorious light tapping at idle, thought no biggie probably a roller follower, found out nothing, absolutely nothing wrong, no groves, discoloration, no play in followers or exhaust valves, no play in cam phaser etc. Inside the valve cover looks like you can eat from it. Probably the stupid retainer in camshaft is at play a bit, which is annoying, but not dangerous at all. Will put it back together and probably will swap the phaser out after American Muscle
Midlife Crises
Senior Member
Pulled the battery and began making plans for winter overhaul and reconfiguration.
Huberoy123
Junior Member
Replaced the Kenwood Mono amplifier and kenwood subs. Looking for more thump in the trunk. Replaced it with a 1200 watt amplifer.
mpm_1
Member
replaced the blend door actuator
oldVOR
Senior Member
replaced the blend door actuator
Only missing a few teeth!
Yep, I gotta do a couple of these too.
Huberoy123
Junior Member
Built a fan setup for my trunk to keep my 3 amplifiers cool. Used 2 - 
120mm, 12 volt fans, and wired them to a relay and temperature controlled switch and fan speed controller. The relay will be triggered by the amplifier turn on circuit, and the fans will turn on when the preset thermostat temperature is reached.
120mm, 12 volt fans, and wired them to a relay and temperature controlled switch and fan speed controller. The relay will be triggered by the amplifier turn on circuit, and the fans will turn on when the preset thermostat temperature is reached.
Forty61
Senior Member
I looked at mine when I left the house and pondered if my battery is going to be weak whenever I go to move it as it’s sat for weeks at this point.. fingers crossed it’s still strong!
Joe combs
Member
Bought more whipple supercharger stuff...
I FINALLY finished my engine rebuild project that started last January. Initially, things started out OK, but then turned into a comedy of errors.
It took about 4 months to find a shop that A, I trusted, B, wasn’t ridiculously expensive, C, could do the job without a 6 month wait, D, could get parts.
I also had to find someone to remove and reinstall the engine because my health no longer allows that level of work.
I found a machine shop/builder with a good reputation who had just moved into a larger shop. As luck would have it, the shop that installed my torque converter a couple of years ago relocated in the same industrial park as the builder and would do the removal. It took about a month to get parts and rebuild the engine with forged rods and pistons. I was there when the engine was started for the first time and the timing cover had an oil leak. That was fixed in 3 days. I get the car back and start to break in the engine. About a week later, the drivers side valve cover is leaking oil. I try to see if a bolt was missed when tightening, and discover that all the valve cover bolts are over tightened. A new kid the builder had hired did not check specs when doing reassembly after timing cover fix.
I drive the car around for a couple of weeks breaking in engine, and it drives perfectly. I go to do datalog to send to Lito, and it won’t shift from 3rd to 4th gear or rev past 5K RPMs. Lito says everything looks good on the datalog and doesn’t know what’s happening.
After a couple of weeks of trouble shooting, I find the nut on the alternator that holds positive cable is loose. See kid from before. Everything works at low rpm, but vibrations at WOT causes misfires. Tighten nut and car runs good. Send Lito datalog.
He says to check for loose exhaust because knock sensors are going crazy. I cannot find anything loose on car, so he tunes as is. Unfortunately, at this point, it’s August and Lito is on vacation and it takes a week for him to respond to an email. After a month we get it tuned. I take it to a couple of HPDE track days and the drag strip and it runs very good. I decide to install smaller pulley on SC and check knock sensors while I’m at it. Turns out the shop that reinstalled the engine, had torqued the KSs to 25 ft/lbs instead of the required 15 ft/lbs. This was causing the false knock Lito was seeing. I replaced the KSs and put everything back together. I installed the last tune, did a final datalog, and as of yesterday, all is good. FINALLY.
It took about 4 months to find a shop that A, I trusted, B, wasn’t ridiculously expensive, C, could do the job without a 6 month wait, D, could get parts.
I also had to find someone to remove and reinstall the engine because my health no longer allows that level of work.
I found a machine shop/builder with a good reputation who had just moved into a larger shop. As luck would have it, the shop that installed my torque converter a couple of years ago relocated in the same industrial park as the builder and would do the removal. It took about a month to get parts and rebuild the engine with forged rods and pistons. I was there when the engine was started for the first time and the timing cover had an oil leak. That was fixed in 3 days. I get the car back and start to break in the engine. About a week later, the drivers side valve cover is leaking oil. I try to see if a bolt was missed when tightening, and discover that all the valve cover bolts are over tightened. A new kid the builder had hired did not check specs when doing reassembly after timing cover fix.
I drive the car around for a couple of weeks breaking in engine, and it drives perfectly. I go to do datalog to send to Lito, and it won’t shift from 3rd to 4th gear or rev past 5K RPMs. Lito says everything looks good on the datalog and doesn’t know what’s happening.
After a couple of weeks of trouble shooting, I find the nut on the alternator that holds positive cable is loose. See kid from before. Everything works at low rpm, but vibrations at WOT causes misfires. Tighten nut and car runs good. Send Lito datalog.
He says to check for loose exhaust because knock sensors are going crazy. I cannot find anything loose on car, so he tunes as is. Unfortunately, at this point, it’s August and Lito is on vacation and it takes a week for him to respond to an email. After a month we get it tuned. I take it to a couple of HPDE track days and the drag strip and it runs very good. I decide to install smaller pulley on SC and check knock sensors while I’m at it. Turns out the shop that reinstalled the engine, had torqued the KSs to 25 ft/lbs instead of the required 15 ft/lbs. This was causing the false knock Lito was seeing. I replaced the KSs and put everything back together. I installed the last tune, did a final datalog, and as of yesterday, all is good. FINALLY.
Gladams
Member
Changed oil in both vehicles. Readjusted the front koni’s 1/4 turn stiffer. so far I like the change. Ordered new struts and shocks for the ranger, rough country. Waiting on my velossatech for the ranger to arrive. Thanks.
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