Has Anyone Tried the MMR Billet Chain Guides for a 4.6L 3V Timing Rebuild?

[Badd GT]

When installing the oil pump, I partially filled it through the opening where the oil pickup tube bolts on and manually rotated the gear that slides onto the crankshaft until I saw oil flow out from the other side. This was just to make sure it was lubricated beforehand before installing it.

Congrats on successful major engine maintenance. I remember when I did a cam swap on mine, you can double and triple check everything but that wtf moment when you “fire it up” the first time waiting for metal on metal, piston hitting valve etc. after the first 5 or 10 seconds of no tragic sounds….. success!

 

[whitmanink]

When I had a new motor built for my car, the reading I did led me to believe that your starter doesn’t spin your motor fast enough to build any psi on your oil pressure which was why pre-lube was important. I don’t think your engine runs for more than 5 seconds before you have oil pressure. Check k it next time you change your oil? Worrying about trying to pre lube your existing engine after doing timing swap a little silly imho

well thats odd,, myself and fordmikluko have been able to make the dummy oil gauge go to where it should with only a starter,, it takes about 60 seconds if not more so a battery tender or charger is recommended

 

[MrBhp]

Cranking with no fire is not the same as starting the engine. They are two very different things.

You are correct in thinking that you may not see a lot oil pressure while cranking. All you are trying to do is get a coating on the bearings. Basically where the engine would be between normal runs. You don't need to grind on it till you see pressure. I stop cranking as soon as the oil pressure needle moves. As long as I know I have oil in the pick-up tube, and into the crank journals, I figure that's good.

 

[GlassTop09]

Once she reached normal operating temperature, I started easing past 3,000 RPM and man, she sounds and feels way more responsive!

Good job!

FYI............if most folks had the opportunity to see an actual datalog of these 3V engine's VCT operations in real time, not on a dyno & especially on engines that have some mileage on them...........you'd have an even better understanding on why this refresh work needs to be done at some point, even if the system is running "quiet", when you see how much cam\crank timing fluctuation is occurring in real time while the ECU is constantly trying to corral this thru the VCT solenoids\cam phasers which can cost some available HP\TQ output thru false knock application from excessive "internal noise frequency fluctuations" as well as airmass thus TQ fluctuations.

Again, good job & enjoy the newfound performance!

 

[Midlife Crises]

I am a firm believer in prelubeing a fresh engine. Definitely not cranking a dry engine. Using assembly oil (not grease) on new parts. I pressure lubed my 4.6 overhaul through the oil pressure switch Boss until the rockers showed flow. Never caused a problem doing a pre lube.
As far as cranking the engine after setting or light repair goes. Doesn’t the oil pressure switch prevent the engine from starting until there is oil pressure? I haven’t tested that switch on the filter adapter but I thought that was what it was for.

 

[GlassTop09]

As far as cranking the engine after setting or light repair goes. Doesn’t the oil pressure switch prevent the engine from starting until there is oil pressure? I haven’t tested that switch on the filter adapter but I thought that was what it was for.

When I recorded my '09 4.6L's EOP last yr, I pulled the EOP switch w\ key off & installed my oil pressure gauge & left the switch wire unplugged thus the ECU wouldn't see the EOP switch activate upon KOER. Started car & ran w\o issue outside of a low engine oil pressure warning light on the dash so I know that if the EOP switch is unplugged (meaning the wire is open.......not grounded) while the ign key is off then started, no alarms outside of a low EOP light & no no-start signals from ECU to prevent car from startup & running (think this may have been done initially w\ the 05-06 MY's w\ the EOL switch in side of oil pan........after a ton of complaints on this switch failing--or actually working properly w\ folks who don't check oil levels--causing excessive warning lights in dash & some folks caught bypassing this switch out of service while still under warranty, Ford did away w\ it on the later MY's).

Since I knew I was pulling this 15-yr old original EOP switch out to check actual EOP, I replaced it w\ a new EOP switch after I was done........cheap insurance.

This much I know............

Didn't test for this at the time (wasn't on my mind to check), but I kinda can see if the EOP switch wire is plugged up & on KOER the EOP comes up & either initially grounds or opens the switch circuit to indicate to the ECU that the engine has initial EOP established & THEN the wire is unplugged afterwards indicating to the ECU that the engine has lost EOP......then maybe the ECU goes into a shutdown mode to protect the engine as well as light up the low EOP light in dash..........?

I can't say for sure if the ECU will shut the engine down in this scenario (definitely nothing seen in my car's tune strategy\calibration to indicate any type of EOP shutdown mode existing.........if it is, it's definitely embedded thus not available thru HPTuners software....), but I definitely know that 1 needs to make sure that this EOP switch wire is in good condition, hooked up & not broken as well as the EOP switch is operational along w\ the dash's low EOP light bulb as this is all you got between you & a locked up 3V.........unless you install an actual EOP gauge as a backup.........because if you can hear anything, it's already too late.

Hope this helps.