3v Budget Build

[loots06]

I’ve followed many builds on this forum and I’ve finally decided to take the plunge and pursue a build of my own. I’ve been wanting to do this build for a while but sometimes there are just more important things to consider. My build will be what most would consider a budget build. The overall goal would be to get to close to 600rwhp but truth be told I just a strong reliable motor for some spirited driving, autocross and an occasional trip to the track, about 2 hours away. I plan on keeping my current motor fully intact for the unknown.

My build will consist of a 4.6 block, bored .020 with ARP main studs and side bolts. I bought the block from a fellow forum member and King of the Rednecks Sportinawoody, http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=119521
I’ll be using Wiseco K0075X2 - 4.6L 3V Piston / Ring Kit -6cc Dish. I placed my order with Modular Head Shop. They should arrive in about 2 weeks. Specs below.


Bore
3.572"
Compression Height
1.220"
Dish Volume
-6cc
Top Ring Down
.300"
Valve Pockets
3V
Wrist Pin
S747 .866" x 2.250"
Wrist Pin Material
4130 Chrome Moly
Piston Rings
3572GNX (Included)


These Pistons are an In-Board Forging, Strutted Skirt design capable of handling boost and / or nitrous. Some of their features are a .300" Down Top Ring, .155" Thick Skirts and Struts and Wiseco Armour-Glide Skirt Coating. Rings are included in the kit, GNX piston ring set which uses a gas nitrided steel top ring and Napier 2nd Ring with a 3 piece oil ring. The Steel top ring is capable of withstanding large amounts of Boost and / or Nitrous, while the Napier 2nd ring helps with oilcontrol.These pistons are designed for use with 3V cylinder heads and have valve pockets for both Intake and exhaust valves for use with aggressive Camshafts.

I’ll be using Boss connecting rods, part number CR3Z-6200-A, that I ordered to Steve at Tasca. The rods arrived last week! I’ll be using at stock 4.6 crank. I’ll also be using the GT5000 oil pump, slightly modified, and TTY head bolts.

Stock heads, I believe I have a lead on a set. The heads will have some work done to freshen them up. I figured since I’ll be building the motor and freshening up the heads that I’ll change the cams, springs if needed, retainers ect. I want something with a nice sound and will give me some good gains. I’m looking at the 127550’s but I’m still undecided. If someone could help me decide that would be great. Finally, I’ll also be changing from a 6 rib to an 8 rib belt conversion, because why not.

I'll keep adding to the list as I go.
Block, $650 plus shipping
Pistons, $780
GT500 Oil pump w/billet gears, $295
Head changing kit, $80
Stock Crank, free
Heads, $400

 

[weather man]

Good luck!

 

[Ingwe]

Good luck. Looking forward to the progress.

 

[loots06]

Thanks! I'm sure I'll have a ton of questions along the way.

 

[go302]

Fuckin dope brah

 

[mustangtcs]

This is exactly what I want to do. Where are you getting all of your specs for clearances?

 

[loots06]

This is exactly what I want to do. Where are you getting all of your specs for clearances?

Everything is pretty much stock stroke and I'm following what others have done on similar builds.

Just completed my order for the oil pump and head changing kit.

 

[702GT]

Should throw a ATI Super Damper and some ARP hardware (heads/mains/rods) on your list. True torque specs and a quality damper will help keep your investment together longer.

Looks like a solid build otherwise.

 

[petersonb]

I had 127650 cams and they were awesome! I tried using 2V metal tensioners, which failed, and ruined the cams. Now running 127500 (non-blower), which are still okay, but I lost about 2psi boost.

YMMV, but I'm sure the 127550 cams are awesome also! I just got a good deal on the 127500s...

 

[sdleo29]

Good luck with the build. I was going to buy a short block, but have decided to build my own as well. I am gathering as much knowledge as I can. I will definitely be following this thread.. What happened to BruceH ??

 

[05stroker]

127550 cams here and they are great! As you can see they just keep pulling.

 

[gtman]

Can you keep the receipts and give us a general cost basis at the end? Ive considered a budget build for a while, but other things and lack of knowledge kept me away.

 

[loots06]

Can you keep the receipts and give us a general cost basis at the end? Ive considered a budget build for a while, but other things and lack of knowledge kept me away.

I'll do the best I can.

 

[roberts]

great build. i would go all arp hadware as i did the same build just a lil different.

 

[petersonb]

I just finished my build.. I have a spreadsheet of all expenses. Most people will say it's cheaper to buy a built shortblock, and that's definitely true.

I was just a broke-ass college student when I snapped a connecting rod, so I was going to attempt a "Budget Build" ... but $10k+ later..... FML.

$250 - Termi Crank
$325 - Termi Rods
$920 - Manley Platinum pistons and rings
$150 - Spec 3+ clutch and Spec billet flywheel
$69 - Windage tray
$79 - MMR motor mount adapter (block is Teksid instead of the stock WAP)
$200 - ARP main studs
$350 - Aluminum Teksid block (includes shipping)
$300 - Machine work: balance rotating ass'y
$480 - ARP head studs
$600 - 127650 cams
$100 - Machine work: boring block .020" over
$160 - Gasket set (head gaskets plus all the others)
$70 - Timing chain tensioners
$75 - ARP side bolts
$335 - Comp beehive valve springs
$75 - Comp valve spring retainers
$150 - Machine work: block line bore (crankshaft)
$120 - Main/Rod bearings
$320 - Billet oil pump gears
$150 - Machine work: shaving heads .040"
$150 - Machine work: head port/polish
$70 - Phaser lockouts (Livernois)
$85 - Spark plugs (damn 05-06 heads...)
--------------------------------------------------
$5583 just in parts and machine work for the block, and most of that stuff was a "good deal" when I got it.

Additional stuff I got:

$3246.78 - new trans plus shipping (the best 3650 promotionpowertrain.com sells - rated for 900 ft-lb and 7500rpm)
$435.16 - electric cutouts
$427.99 - Pypes mid-muffler setup
$160 - water methanol injection kit
$180 - water meth inj kit progressive controller
-----------------------------------------------------------
$10,032.93

Bottom line: my "budget build" attempt ended up costing over $10k.

Also worth noting that I ordered a few things that didn't work, or that I didn't need, etc... and that all cost me about $500 out of pocket overall.....

If I did it again, I'd buy a built shortblock for around $3k, and if you're really worried about it being "built right", disassemble and reassemble it (or pay a reputable shop, I guess). That'll save at least $1,000.

My transmission is probably overkill... but I plan to get up to around 650whp, and I won't worry about my trans (already had killed a syncro on stock 3650 at 480whp). Peace of mind is worth more to some than others.

I'm not telling anyone how to live their life. I'm just throwing up my numbers from personal experience in hopes that someone will find them useful. I wish I had found someone's numbers before I went shopping!!

Cheers

 

[07 Boss]

I had 127650 cams and they were awesome! I tried using 2V metal tensioners, which failed, and ruined the cams. Now running 127500 (non-blower), which are still okay, but I lost about 2psi boost.

YMMV, but I'm sure the 127550 cams are awesome also! I just got a good deal on the 127500s...

What happened with your tensioners? I though the 2v ones were the way to go.

 

[petersonb]

What happened with your tensioners? I though the 2v ones were the way to go.

Yeah I thought so too... I'm not a believer anymore. Everyone will have their opinion I guess, but I went 85k miles on the 3v tensioners (stock engine), 600mi on the 2v tensioners, and now at 3k miles without issue on 3v tensioners.

There's a reason Ford quit using them, and it's probably not because they added another intake valve.

The one on the passenger side locked out, snapped the arm, chain got loose, skipped timing, and the pistons hit every exhaust valve on the passenger side, breaking two of the valve followers, ruining the cam and getting bits of metal in the metal. Lucky me, got to pull the engine back out and completely tear it down only 600mi after putting it in. Passenger head had some damaged journals from debris, but was machined out.

I don't know what specifically fails on the 2v to cause them to lock out, but when I placed it in a vise, I wasn't able to compress it, as if I were trying to install it after pulling the pin accidentally. Driver side one went back in easily.

Do a search on these locking out, and you'll find several other instances of them failing.

And of course, there are people out there who have had 2V tensioners on their builds and haven't had any problems for tens of thousands of miles... and those people swear that 2v tensioners are the way to go.... yada yada.

Let my instance be a small data point then.

If you use 3v tensioners, people's biggest complaint is that the seal tears or something like that. Put some oil on it when you install it, just like an oil filter.

 

[loots06]

I'll be using most 3v items with the exception of the oil pump, GT500 with TSS gears. The backing plate has an 0-ring.

 

[petersonb]

I'll be using most 3v items with the exception of the oil pump, GT500 with TSS gears. The backing plate has an 0-ring.

Good call.

 

[sdleo29]

I just finished my build.. I have a spreadsheet of all expenses. Most people will say it's cheaper to buy a built shortblock, and that's definitely true.

I was just a broke-ass college student when I snapped a connecting rod, so I was going to attempt a "Budget Build" ... but $10k+ later..... FML.

$250 - Termi Crank
$325 - Termi Rods
$920 - Manley Platinum pistons and rings
$150 - Spec 3+ clutch and Spec billet flywheel
$69 - Windage tray
$79 - MMR motor mount adapter (block is Teksid instead of the stock WAP)
$200 - ARP main studs
$350 - Aluminum Teksid block (includes shipping)
$300 - Machine work: balance rotating ass'y
$480 - ARP head studs
$600 - 127650 cams
$100 - Machine work: boring block .020" over
$160 - Gasket set (head gaskets plus all the others)
$70 - Timing chain tensioners
$75 - ARP side bolts
$335 - Comp beehive valve springs
$75 - Comp valve spring retainers
$150 - Machine work: block line bore (crankshaft)
$120 - Main/Rod bearings
$320 - Billet oil pump gears
$150 - Machine work: shaving heads .040"
$150 - Machine work: head port/polish
$70 - Phaser lockouts (Livernois)
$85 - Spark plugs (damn 05-06 heads...)
--------------------------------------------------
$5583 just in parts and machine work for the block, and most of that stuff was a "good deal" when I got it.

Additional stuff I got:

$3246.78 - new trans plus shipping (the best 3650 promotionpowertrain.com sells - rated for 900 ft-lb and 7500rpm)
$435.16 - electric cutouts
$427.99 - Pypes mid-muffler setup
$160 - water methanol injection kit
$180 - water meth inj kit progressive controller
-----------------------------------------------------------
$10,032.93

Bottom line: my "budget build" attempt ended up costing over $10k.

Also worth noting that I ordered a few things that didn't work, or that I didn't need, etc... and that all cost me about $500 out of pocket overall.....

If I did it again, I'd buy a built shortblock for around $3k, and if you're really worried about it being "built right", disassemble and reassemble it (or pay a reputable shop, I guess). That'll save at least $1,000.

My transmission is probably overkill... but I plan to get up to around 650whp, and I won't worry about my trans (already had killed a syncro on stock 3650 at 480whp). Peace of mind is worth more to some than others.

I'm not telling anyone how to live their life. I'm just throwing up my numbers from personal experience in hopes that someone will find them useful. I wish I had found someone's numbers before I went shopping!!

Cheers

That's actually not bad for long block and tranny ... I am hoping to build an aluminum short block to handle 750 RWHP for 3-4K , use my heads and blower from current setup. Half the fun in building it I think otherwise I would buy Memphis' long block, but I want a forged crank... Seems hard to believe that motor is still available for 2300 bucks.