Best cold air intake for overall peak gains. 4.6 V8

[theRedStorm]

So I'm debating between getting a JLT series 3 or an Airaid Race Mxp series CAI. Both have good gains but according to American Muscle, the Airaid is said to have more Torque gain (low end) and good HP gain. What is your guys opinion on the best intake paired with a 62mm Throttle body?

 

[stkjock]

It’s the tune, not the intake, get a Lund Tune from Lethal Performance with CAI

https://www.lethalperformance.com/l...ower-pack-with-jlt-series-3-cold-air-kit.html

https://www.lethalperformance.com/f...stang-gt/induction/induction-kits-filters/jlt

 

[theRedStorm]

But which intake combined with a Lund tune is recommended ?

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

The larger diameter JLT gives you more room to grow if you go on to add more N/A bolt ons, especially upgraded heads/cams/intake manifold.
As for the 62mm TB, don't bother unless you're either going to upgrade HCI or take the forced induction route.

 

[Iceman62]

Go big, or go home...supercharge that beast!

JK, I went w/JLT and Brenspeed tune - couldn't be happier.

 

[Sactown]

Throttle body is a waste of money for what you want at this time. As for the CAI they are all pretty much the same, it boils down to what you like best, the tune is going to make the biggest difference like stkjock stated

 

[702GT]

stkjock never lies, and carries an unlicensed nuclear accelerator on his back if you post useless shit or piss him off.



I bought a JLT because it was $75 used on craigslist. CAI's are all the same, so pick one that floats your boat. I could have my tuner manipulate my powerband to show 30-40wtq gains between 2 CAI's all day. It's the tune that made the gains. Show me a K&N in the stock box with a tune that won't do what a JLT or FRPP CAI & tune will do. Shelling $300 for 5wtq isn't a good deal, either. Leave your throttle body alone. A 62mm twin TB belongs on a boosted car, or maybe a hardcore NA build reving to the moon. It won't help you.

Your best bang for the buck NA mods are 4.10-4.30 gears, LT headers, O/R midpipe, and a tune. After that, cams (choice of cams will affect whether you need valve springs and/or head work) and then a cold air intake now that you can rev high enough. And maybe do delete plates if you want to claw up some extra top end and sacrifice a little bottom/mid.

Just my $.02 after pissing $x,xxx's away on NA stuff for 10whp here and 20whp there. Only took $3,500, 7psi, and a tank of corn to see the error of my ways.

 

[stkjock]

stkjock never lies, and carries an unlicensed nuclear accelerator on his back if you post useless shit or piss him off.

 

[hockeygod]

Just to add here as well. Think about what your goals for your car are going to be. Are you always going to stay naturally aspirated or do you plan to go forced induction down the road. If the you go that route then save your money towards parts that will be compatible with your future goals.

 

[NUTCASE]

I used to micro analyze the differences between intakes. Its relatively easy to design an intake and the manufacturers want you to talk all about it excessively. If I ever get another 3v I am using the stock intake and TB until they cannot be used any more.

 

[702GT]

I used to micro analyze the differences between intakes. Its relatively easy to design an intake and the manufacturers want you to talk all about it excessively. If I ever get another 3v I am using the stock intake and TB until they cannot be used any more.

Amen. And stock intake manifold too.

 

[JeremyH]

IMO pick your tuner first. The cai really doesn't matter, if you trying to maximize the setup the tuner will have more info on which one they feel responds best.

 

[theRedStorm]

My goal is stay N/A. Currently have kooks Long tubes, catted H pipe, roush axleback (rear valence) , JLT series 2, SCT x4 tuner using canned tunes. CF hood, tokico shocks/struts, Saleen 20s, 275/40/20 all around. The few things I'm currently debating are
-underdrive pulley
-JLT series 3 /airaid race Cai
-CAMS( any recommendations ?)
-one piece drives shaft aluminum
-catless X pipe (is it worth it?)
-Nitrous(but this is just a farfetched idea)

 

[hockeygod]

My goal is stay N/A. Currently have kooks Long tubes, catted H pipe, roush axleback (rear valence) , JLT series 2, SCT x4 tuner using canned tunes. CF hood, tokico shocks/struts, Saleen 20s, 275/40/20 all around. The few things I'm currently debating are
-underdrive pulley
-JLT series 3 /airaid race Cai
-CAMS( any recommendations ?)
-one piece drives shaft aluminum
-catless X pipe (is it worth it?)
-Nitrous(but this is just a farfetched idea)

Removing the cats won't make a huge difference if you aren't going F.I. the drive shaft and underdrive pulleys will be good for freeing up some horsepower but don't naturally produce more. I ran nitrous for a while with a steedancood air intake and dynoed at 490rwhp. I ended up doing away with it and going f.i. as the nitrous wasn't feesable for by daily driver on my streets. The track was great for it.

 

[JeremyH]

Cam choice will be based on your gears and goal for the car. Ie camming for top end hp track use. Or a balanced cam that doesnt scarifice as much low end for street use.

 

[83-88T-Bird Guy]

I went with the JLT series 3.
I like the looks better than other types available

I paid 400 for the x4, 150 for the (painted) used series 3 and 100 for a Lito tune.
Lito's tune alone picked the car up .15 in the 1/4 mile over the canned tune that came with the X4.
The red 3 valve is now the most consistent bracket car I have ever had

 

[theRedStorm]

Cam choice will be based on your gears and goal for the car. Ie camming for top end hp track use. Or a balanced cam that doesnt scarifice as much low end for street use.

Looking for a good mid. Cam. Wanna keep low end torque but also gain upper end.

Also, does anybody have the fix for the freezing ebrake in a manual transmissions?

 

[NUTCASE]

Also, does anybody have the fix for the freezing ebrake in a manual transmissions?

I totally forgot about that problem. After a couple of times of that happening to me I just stopped using the ebrake. The car never rolled away. i don't think there is a fix for that.

 

[smillysmile]

Looking for a good mid. Cam. Wanna keep low end torque but also gain upper end.

I just put in Ford performance Hot Rods last week and I like them. Low end torque I’d say is almost exactly the same as before mid-high is awesome. Lobes aren’t as big as Detroit’s or comp’s but they’re a nice drop in. No need to fuck with springs or phasers.

 

[702GT]

I just put in Ford performance Hot Rods last week and I like them. Low end torque I’d say is almost exactly the same as before mid-high is awesome. Lobes aren’t as big as Detroit’s or comp’s but they’re a nice drop in. No need to fuck with springs or phasers.

FRPP really nailed it when they came out with the hotrod cam. It's obviously not a max effort cam, but it still makes gains without sacrificing a bunch of low end and piling all the power to the far right. I loved my Comp 127020's (Mutha Thumr), they were a quite a bit more aggressive in LSA, but they trashed the low end and put everything to the right. The fun really didn't start 'til about 4,000RPM. They did pull to 6500rpm, which was nice and made for a great weekend track application, but I would have rather done the hot rods. I stole the Comp's, so I can't complain about the deal and I adapted to driving in the mid-range casually. (paid $350 for the Comp's used vs $700 for the FRPP's)

For a non-serious street car/recreational track car, the hot rods are very nice. Some have kept them with the PD/Centri FI and still maintained good results. Without a doubt, it's a head turning cam with a kick.