Big Bore Boss build

[BruceH]

i guess the oil pressure finally came up. i noticed it gauge was on zero and a light was on.

It came up pretty quick, just like after an oil change. The light was the parking brake light.

Any idea when you will do some baseline pulls?

No. I did a few pulls today while watching the gauges.

Good job Bruce. Congrats on another successful build.

Thanks. The first start up is always a little bit dramatic, lol. I would of really been bummed if I hadn't remembered the crank trigger wheel. I had the front cover and valve covers on when I looked at a pic with them off and realized the trigger wheel wasn't on. It would of been a lot harder to change with the motor in the car. I don't want to pull another motor for a long time.

 

[ArtQ]

Way Cool!!

 

[rojizostang]

i'm jelly

 

[BruceH]

No pics to go with this. I've gotten the shakedown runs done and switched over to E85. I'll change oil this afternoon and put some break in additive in with the new oil. The old oil (110 miles) looks very good. There aren't any obvious contaminates getting into it, even with the 2618 pistons and .003 wall clearance.

I've made a few wot pulls with it and gotten as high as 6900 rpms. I'm progressively taking the rpms higher until it feels like it doesn't want to go higher. Yesterday that point was at about 5700 rpms. I think it's pretty much broken in right now but I'll run conventional for the next 2000 or so miles just to be sure.

Initial impressions are that it pulls well. It really reminds me of when I had a non-intercooled Whipple making 408rwhp. I wouldn't be surprised if this was somewhere around that number. It seems to have plenty of torque.

 

[stkjock]

2000 on Dino? I think I swapped to synth after 600 and two changes.

Why so long?

 

[BruceH]

2000 on Dino? I think I swapped to synth after 600 and two changes.

Why so long?

A few reasons. First of all it will still be good at 2k. Secondly I'm putting some zinc/phosphorus additive in for this change. Honda does it with their new car fills and suggests 2000 miles minimum before changing oil. I've owned a few new Hondas and never had an issue with them so I think they have this figured out. Once again I'll try to follow a proven method.

I plan to keep this motor around so it's getting extra special treatment, lol.

 

[Tron]

good job on getting it put together so quickly! sounds great and seems to run as well as stock! which companies additive are you running?

 

[lethe]

Can't too see if you meet or exceed your power goals.

 

[BruceH]

good job on getting it put together so quickly! sounds great and seems to run as well as stock! which companies additive are you running?

It's a Jeg's product that came with the assembly lube. I think it's rebranded Comp additive. I'm getting a little wishy washy about using it. The more I think about it the more I don't want to take a chance at screwing up the break in process even though I think it's already broken in most of the way.

 

[Tron]

if you put it in you will wish you didnt and if you dont put it in you will wish you did, lol. talked with any reputable builders about it?

 

[tigerhonaker]

No pics to go with this. I've gotten the shakedown runs done and switched over to E85. I'll change oil this afternoon and put some break in additive in with the new oil. The old oil (110 miles) looks very good. There aren't any obvious contaminates getting into it, even with the 2618 pistons and .003 wall clearance.

I've made a few wot pulls with it and gotten as high as 6900 rpms. I'm progressively taking the rpms higher until it feels like it doesn't want to go higher. Yesterday that point was at about 5700 rpms. I think it's pretty much broken in right now but I'll run conventional for the next 2000 or so miles just to be sure.

Initial impressions are that it pulls well. It really reminds me of when I had a non-intercooled Whipple making 408rwhp. I wouldn't be surprised if this was somewhere around that number. It seems to have plenty of torque.

Bruce,

Nice going and glad all has worked out smooth.



Terry

 

[WARstang]

I only use zinc additive on my 351C with a flat tappet cam. I don't think anything modern would benefit from it.

 

[BruceH]

I only use zinc additive on my 351C with a flat tappet cam. I don't think anything modern would benefit from it.

You are probably right. I talked with a knowledgeable engine builder and he said go ahead and use it. I've never used it before and never seen extra wear but I have it and might as well use it.

It was a fairly nice package from Jegs. A comp branded marshmallow fluff assembly lube, Jegs branded assembly lube that was very similar to Federal Mogul I've used before, and the bottle of break in additive. IIRC it was less than $15 for all three.

Changed the oil and cut the filter open. Nothing noteable was seen. So far so good with this motor.

The Exedy 07806 clutch is working well too. It's a stage 1 organic racing clutch rated for 510/639 hp/tq. Pedal effort is about stock. It's just a little grabby but that should change once it gets some more use.

 

[tigerhonaker]

You are probably right. I talked with a knowledgeable engine builder and he said go ahead and use it. I've never used it before and never seen extra wear but I have it and might as well use it.

It was a fairly nice package from Jegs. A comp branded marshmallow fluff assembly lube, Jegs branded assembly lube that was very similar to Federal Mogul I've used before, and the bottle of break in additive. IIRC it was less than $15 for all three.

Changed the oil and cut the filter open. Nothing noteable was seen. So far so good with this motor.

The Exedy 07806 clutch is working well too. It's a stage 1 organic racing clutch rated for 510/639 hp/tq. Pedal effort is about stock. It's just a little grabby but that should change once it gets some more use.

Bruce ...

You are very thorough and reads like all is A-OK.



Terry

 

[Dark_horse]

Bruce what flywheel are you using? just curious

 

[Makdaddy]

I only use zinc additive on my 351C with a flat tappet cam. I don't think anything modern would benefit from it.

Hmmm

This is a good write up from 07

http://www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_0702_pitstop_zinc_oil_additive/

 

[BruceH]

Bruce what flywheel are you using? just curious

A Fidanza aluminum. I had to change flywheels due to the 8 bolt crank. These were on ebay for a good price. It turned out that someone on the forum also had one they never used so I just bought it off the forum. IIRC it was a little over $100. A really great deal for an insert flywheel that's sfi rated.

The clutch is also sfi rated as is the balancer.

Drove the car to work today and all is good. The extra degree of lsa in the cams takes most of the 127500 lope out. Driveability is very good with the base tune. The long tubes and pro chamber give it a deep sound. It's come close to droning at certain rpms but doesn't. I may take the GTA mufflers off and put some stock ones on for a little more stealth.

The biggest decision I have left to make is what fuel to use. I was doing wot pulls with 92 pump and all was well with 28 degrees of spark commanded. In fact I left a spark adder on somewhere because it crept up to 30.25 at around 6600 rpm.

With E85 detonation isn't a concern. I need to check out the knock sensors and see what they are detecting with my unconventional arrangement of mounting them.

There is a noticeable increase in torque with this motor. Once I feel it's fully broken in (it's just about there with 150 miles) I'll do some serious datalogs, tweak where needed, and hit the dyno. I also have an frpp tb and intake manifold to put on. I should just put them on now instead of drawing it out. I'll probably do some good wot pulls with both combos and compare airflow on the logs.

 

[BruceH]

Got a few pulls in today.

This is a screen shot of one of them. You can see how the airflow just about peaks at 6100 rpm. For reference that's where the red line is and all values shown are at 6100. The pull went past 7100 and airflow only increased about 2 lbs.

Normally this is where I'd play with the cam retard but these cams are locked out. I do have something else to try though. Today I'll put the frpp intake manifold and frpp tb on and do some comparison. Both should help with top end air flow. The next data log will confirm it if true.

The motor is still pretty tight feeling up top too. Not sure if that's part of break in or being choked for air.

Edit: Also of note is the spark source. It's 4 which means the knock sensors are pulling timing. The knock sensors are set up fairly unconventionally so I'm not convinced it's detonation. At least I do know that they are picking something up and sending info back to the ecu. The spark shown is more than commanded. I'll have to go back in and see what adder or adders I didn't turn off.

Edit: Just compared an earlier datalog done with the older motor. At 6100 rpm it was flowing 34 lbs of air. That means that this motor is flowing 20% more air at 6100 rpm. Since the displacement difference is 14% I'd say something good is happenening. The curves also look like it's an even greater amount of difference the lower the rpms.

 

[daveyboy]

Is that the advantage 3 software?

 

[BruceH]

Is that the advantage 3 software?

That's livelink. It's a free download from sct. I am using advantage 3 to tune with.