BMR Watts Link - Teaser

[Mr. Q]

Pack them with grease, see post #521

Don't forget to see what Kelley posted in regards to packing grease.

Damn! I'm gone for a week, and miss all the good stuff!

Looks like Dylan is busy posting away under my username! Tricky tricky...





The only time you would ever grease a bearing is if it is designed to be greased, or rather - a metal to metal style bearing.

It is not a good idea to lubricate a teflon / kevlar insert spherical bearing with "grease" of any sort. Doing so is a quick way to build up excessive contamination, and it will cause premature lining failure.

I have had excellent results with the RERS3 boots that Dylan posted above. They definitely help keep contamination and water away, and also help with the ever-so-common clunk that people get when running a dual bearing pivot point, as they help keep the bearing indexed. Even when the bearing moves out of it's 12/6 orientation, the boots cushion the contact between the bearing race and the sleeve spacers or bolts.

 

[tbrock]

I soaked the rod ends with a HD metal protector then slid the boot on. Just waiting on the correct rod end links so I can finish the job.

 

[strictly180]

have you guys fitted the convertible yet??

 

[tbrock]

Quick update on my install of the BMR watts system. Finally got all of the right parts to work with my Ford Racing/Eibach sway bar. I ended up using the Steeda Rear Sway Bar Links (make sure you order the 22mm bushings/ comes with 3/4" bushings). Finished up too late tonight to test drive but glad it is done. I made some marks on the axle clamps/axle housing so I can easily tell if they move. Overall fairly easy to install. I benefited from Cobrareds videos. If you purchase the rod end version make sure you press the axle side rod end spacers in to the rod end with the bolt or some kind of press, otherwise it will drive you nuts trying to get it to fit in the bracket.
I was not able to use the rod end covers on the pivot side rod ends (not enough room). I'll post my driving impressions tomorrow and some pictures.

 

[CobraRed]

Gotta bring that sexy back

 

[BMR Tech]

Awesome guys!

tbrock, I am glad to see you got it worked out. What diff cover do you have??

CobraRed, looking good sir!! How you liking it?

 

[tbrock]

Awesome guys!

tbrock, I am glad to see you got it worked out. What diff cover do you have??

CobraRed, looking good sir!! How you liking it?

I have a Ford Racing (M4033G2) painted black. Love the way it feels on the car. I hit a few twisty that are bumpy and the rear end was much more settled than in the past.

I do have a question. How close is the frame supposed to be to the spare tire? At the top of the frame mine appears to rest on the spare tire area. I've got an occasional buzz that seems to emanate from the rear of the car. I'm assuming it is the frame/spare tire area. It won't do it idling just under certain loads. I may drop the frame to push the area in a bit to see if it goes away.

 

[BMR Tech]

It will be between touching to 1/8".

That area is very very soft and easy to push in with a mallet if you want the space.

I didn't see any issues with resting the center mount against the wheel well when developing the kit - and we really didn't have any other option due to the design limitations.

 

[tbrock]

It will be between touching to 1/8".

That area is very very soft and easy to push in with a mallet if you want the space.

I didn't see any issues with resting the center mount against the wheel well when developing the kit - and we really didn't have any other option due to the design limitations.

Yeah I don't think it is an issue, maybe the source of my buzz/rattle.

 

[CobraRed]

Mine appeared to almost touch during install, but under load has that 1/8" or so. Hasn't caused any issues or noise.

 

[BMR Tech]

Well keep me updated. I would like to know.

I didnt notice any increased NVH with ours touching the wheel well on our 2011.

 

[tbrock]

I'll let you know if it goes away. It almost sounds like one of the exhaust heat shields buzzing but it is at the rear of the car. Only change I've made is the Watts. Going to crawl under tonight and check everything again.

 

[nelsonbullitt]

My Fays 2 is off my car. BMR supposed to come in tomorrow.

I will post my opinion vs the fays2 I've had on this summer.

 

[BMR Tech]

I'll let you know if it goes away. It almost sounds like one of the exhaust heat shields buzzing but it is at the rear of the car. Only change I've made is the Watts. Going to crawl under tonight and check everything again.

Let me know sir! You know where we are.

My Fays 2 is off my car. BMR supposed to come in tomorrow.

I will post my opinion vs the fays2 I've had on this summer.

Sweet! Let us know your thoughts! I suspect you will really like the BMR version.

 

[DevGittinJr]

So.....what's the word on the diff mount version?

Still working on it.

Can't decide on whether to provide a diff mount kit that uses a specific diff cover that we will provide, or just a plate set-up that will work on any diff cover.

I would say a year out or so.

Update?

 

[BMR Tech]

Still in the works, hoping to have it ready by the end of the year.

 

[Pentalab]

Still in the works, hoping to have it ready by the end of the year.

What's the aprx ballpark price going to be ? I know a lot of folks who are snapping at the bit for the BMR differential mounted watts. The WL version is now up to $899.82 - $900.00 retail.... which is becoming cost prohibitive.

The WL version only has 2 adjustments, stock ride height, and lowered 1". And no adjustments at the extreme ends. Folks need a cost effective differential solution.

 

[JerryZ]

Concerning the noise after the WL install, I noticed during my install the WL frame comes very close to rubbing the passenger side muffler clamp. Once I had the WL torqued, it cleared but still quite close. You should check that and possibly rotate your muffler clamp if necessary. That's my 2 cents. Cheers!

 

[tbrock]

Concerning the noise after the WL install, I noticed during my install the WL frame comes very close to rubbing the passenger side muffler clamp. Once I had the WL torqued, it cleared but still quite close. You should check that and possibly rotate your muffler clamp if necessary. That's my 2 cents. Cheers!

Thanks I figured it out. It is my new/old mufflers (GTA's) that I put on at the same time. They have a slight buzz (internal) at 2500 rpms. I did create a little space between the frame and spare tire area just in case.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Good that you found out what it was, and better still that it wasn't the WL.



It sounds like a weld or two for some baffles or support plates inside broke and the baffles go into resonance at 2500 rpm. This was a huge problem with a specific stainless steel turbo-style muffler line some time ago (and resulted in it being discontinued).


Norm