Finally get my own "KABOOM" thread!

petersonb

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Why did he say he was selling it?

He had an iron block stroker he was putting in his 07. Had sold everything out of it except the block, that's why all the rust on the cylinders. He had sent me pics of the crack before the weld, but I just got a new phone and Geek Squad didn't transfer all my photos.

I just figured that as long as the crack there wasn't structural, it would be okay, but I don't have any science to back that up.

The weld just has to hold the 16psi from the cooling system, right?
 

05stroker

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He had an iron block stroker he was putting in his 07. Had sold everything out of it except the block, that's why all the rust on the cylinders. He had sent me pics of the crack before the weld, but I just got a new phone and Geek Squad didn't transfer all my photos.

I just figured that as long as the crack there wasn't structural, it would be okay, but I don't have any science to back that up.

The weld just has to hold the 16psi from the cooling system, right?

As long as the block is still true, yes. I would think you would know if there is an issue when the block is plate honed for the new pistons. They should check the line bore and decks also. When a block freezes it can move a lot. Just cover yourself.
 

petersonb

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As long as the block is still true, yes. I would think you would know if there is an issue when the block is plate honed for the new pistons. They should check the line bore and decks also. When a block freezes it can move a lot. Just cover yourself.

Right. I had thought about the deformities from freezing, but figured that if it line bored and all other machining checked out, it must not have moved enough to really matter. That's my shot-in-the-dark thinking, at least.

I should have the block back later this week from the machine shop. Cylinders are getting bored and it's getting line bored because the main caps aren't from this block, specifically.


To everyone, thanks for the input! :thumb:


BP
 

05stroker

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Right. I had thought about the deformities from freezing, but figured that if it line bored and all other machining checked out, it must not have moved enough to really matter. That's my shot-in-the-dark thinking, at least.

I should have the block back later this week from the machine shop. Cylinders are getting bored and it's getting line bored because the main caps aren't from this block, specifically.


To everyone, thanks for the input! :thumb:


BP

Looking forward to a successful trip home from the machine shop. I love picking up parts from the machine shop, that means its going together soon!
 

petersonb

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Looking forward to a successful trip home from the machine shop. I love picking up parts from the machine shop, that means its going together soon!

I'm looking forward to the day which is the reverse of yesterday! Haha

Plenty of other things to keep me busy in the mean time though.
 

weather man

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No way would I use that block for boost. The one arrow might be just a stain. The crack looks like it extends into that 2nd web.

Picture2_zpsa7106f7d.png
 

BruceH

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It could be a casting mark. I've had a couple with marks that looked like something they weren't. Hopefully that's the case here.


No way would I use that block for boost. The one arrow might be just a stain. The crack looks like it extends into that 2nd web.

Picture2_zpsa7106f7d.png
 

petersonb

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It could be a casting mark. I've had a couple with marks that looked like something they weren't. Hopefully that's the case here.

I'm getting out the hard drive with all my photos now to try to view that spot from another angle. The block is still at the machine shop, so I don't have it in my hands, but I did take several photos with redundancies.

FWIW, I don't remember any cracks in the block. It looks really obvious in the photo, so hopefully I won't feel like an idiot here in about 5-10 minutes.... Haha. I'd rather be wrong now, as opposed to later.



BP
 

petersonb

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So, upon going through my pictures, the right-er arrow is a piece of plastic.

011714+-+New+Block+%252826%2529.JPG


And here's a better closeup of the weld. Looks like it would hold 16psi of water in well enough that it wouldn't be an issue, wouldn't you guys agree?

011714+-+New+Block+%252830%2529.JPG



BP
 

05stroker

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So, upon going through my pictures, the right-er arrow is a piece of plastic.

011714+-+New+Block+%252826%2529.JPG


And here's a better closeup of the weld. Looks like it would hold 16psi of water in well enough that it wouldn't be an issue, wouldn't you guys agree?

011714+-+New+Block+%252830%2529.JPG



BP

As long as the line bore and the cylinder bores check out I wouldn't worry about it. That weld will hold water.
 

petersonb

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As long as the line bore and the cylinder bores check out I wouldn't worry about it. That weld will hold water.

Agreed.

Side note, 05stroker, your ad for the NOS stuff came up on my search for line locks.....

..... but you just said something about converter lock up I think, and getting off the line.

So close!

Gonna order the SLP line locks tomorrow from AM.



BP
 

05stroker

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Agreed.

Side note, 05stroker, your ad for the NOS stuff came up on my search for line locks.....

..... but you just said something about converter lock up I think, and getting off the line.

So close!

Gonna order the SLP line locks tomorrow from AM.



BP
My N2O kit is sold pending payment. I don't have any trouble getting off the line as of yet. To be honest it still scares me and haven't even used the trans brake yet! It will get faster for sure but, that is why I do it! See sig, it must make the hands shake or well you know...
 

petersonb

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Quick discussion, please:

Head port and polish or no? I'm torn between yes and no.

Who doesn't want their heads to flow better?

BUT

How do I know the guy is actually doing me any good instead of harm?

Do I just stick with Ford's original design? As of right now, I'm inclined to leave well enough alone and forego the port/polish.

Input please!!


BP
 

lethe

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Who is "the guy" in question? Is it some guy from craigslist or a reputable shop?
 

petersonb

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Who is "the guy" in question? Is it some guy from craigslist or a reputable shop?

It's a guy who owns a shop, but I'm pretty sure he's just going to do it by hand. Doesn't seem to be much science to it, looks like it's just guess work.

I guess a better question would be, "Should I let him touch the heads with power tools?" and "How easy would it be for him to really fuch them up?"


BP
 

lethe

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By hand with pneumatic tools is the standard way to do it. You don't see cnc work usually unless they are very high dollar heads.
 

petersonb

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By hand with pneumatic tools is the standard way to do it. You don't see cnc work usually unless they are very high dollar heads.

okay, I don't feel so bad about it now. I'll probably let him go ahead and do it, I've seen some of his previous work and it looks pretty simple.


BP
 

petersonb

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Thanks to D98GT for the water methanol injection kit!

Line locks shipped today.

Block is at the shop for line bore/hone. I'll hopefully know tomorrow if the block is true or not.

Heads will be dropped off at another shop tomorrow. New gasket set came with new valve stem seals.

The piston which was on the rod that let go hit the head and I went ahead and purchased new valves for that cylinder, and should know by the end of the week if the heads are okay. I'm expecting them to be fine. I think the intake valves were open when it hit, and just got bent a little bit. Exhaust valve looked okay, but I'll be replacing it anyways for the $20 peace of mind. Shaving the heads .020" so the front timing cover shouldn't be too far off.

Lito talked me into trying to get the methanol injection to go in *after* the supercharger, which, for a positive displacement s/c is less than easy. Anyone know of a nos plate for the Eaton M112? One that sits under it?

I haven't found one yet, so I'm planning on putting an engineering degree to work and "designing" one for a machine shop to make. Just have to find a shop who will do it. Thinking anodized (blue) aluminum at this point, in the same general shape as the gasket, with a hole tapped for the jet. The kit I purchased from D98GT is the Devilsown Stage 1 (Universal, boost controlled), and once I get it, I should be able to figure out the thread pattern of the jet and go from there.

I bought 127650 Comp cams (stage 3 blower cams), which I know won't make for a smooth street car, but I got a good deal on them, so I'll give them a shot. Stay tuned: they may be up for sale soon! Haha. To go with them, 26125-24 Comp springs, and I will be removing the phasers and VCT solenoids and all VCT stuff, to go to phaser deletes and mechanical valve timing only.

Bought ARP side bolts, but they weren't what I had hoped for, so turned around and sold them ($12 loss.. bummer. Live and learn [to look up part numbers before purchasing something]).

Bought supercharger oil, which turns out, is really expensive. 12oz for $35 :(

Here's a challenge I'm now facing, on which I'll take any input: Engine oil cooler I purchased is a different thread than the block/oil filter. As of now, the plan is to have the double-threaded piece (which goes into the block, then the oil filter normally goes onto the "other" side) replaced with a custom double-threaded piece: one side stock, to go into the block, and the other be the [slightly] smaller diameter thread for the cooler adapter. I think that will be okay, but then I still have to find the filter (and remember which it is for the rest of forever) which fits the OTHER end of the cooler. Now that I think about it, the description was "universal" threads, so maybe a Chevy 350 or something real common?? Long shot, but has anyone ever ran into a similar issue?

Ordered a TR-3650 with G Force gears from Promotionpowertrain in Florida. They advertise it as the "1000hp" transmission, and they rate it up to 900 ft-lb of torque and smooth shifting up to 7200 RPM, and especially with the WOTbox, it should shift pretty well (Umm... as well as notchy 3650 can shift...)

That'll do... I don't plan on being 900 ft lb any time soon, and 7200 is right on track I think.

At this point, I'm thinking 6-8 more weeks until completion. Not because I am taking that long, but by the time I wait on all these other things which are out of my hands, I could easily burn up 6 weeks. Shit, it's already been 7 since I blew it, and I haven't even started assembling the new one.

Time flies, but I sure miss my car.


All in due time....... BP
 

petersonb

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Line locks came in.

Rotating assembly has been balanced. Crank is .010" under, which leaves a good amount of metal on the journals, but gives me a little bit more bearing.

Methanol injection kit came in, but I want to inject UNDER the supercharger. I have yet to find anything showing anyone doing this, but I'm imagining a plate in the same shape as the Eaton M112 gasket, with the nozzles coming in the side.

If anyone knows of such a plate, please point me in its direction! Otherwise, I'll be making one.
 

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