Does it make a difference if it's a centri or a PD blower? Obviously a blower cam is ideal, but sometimes you have to run what you have for the time being. I plan to run my Detroit Rocker NA cams (cause that's what's installed on the engine right now) with a whipple 2.3, low boost, but that's just until I get around to forging the motor in a few years. Can't bring myself to tear down an engine that runs so good.
Very interesting discussion about breaking the Factory crank. I think I would be looking for an aftermarket crank that didn’t snap or a drive system that could isolate some of the load. I have honestly never heard of somebody breaking the crank by driving a blower.
I'm using a forged Kellogg crank (8-bolt / stroker). Didn't have the $$$$ for a billet crank. Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
I finally have what I needed..my question now is, what is the best tool to install this onto the snout? ATI mentions a tool..i cannot find it..also the stock arp crank bolt comes with arp lube. The longer mini cooper cam bolt does not. Is the lubricant needed for install? Also, do I use the stock crank bolt washer or the arp one?
I have a HB installation/removal tool set I purchased from Summit. It includes several adapters for different threads. Basically you screw a long stud into the crank, line up the balancer with the snout and key way, slip a plate and jam nut over the stud and tighten the jam nut to draw the balancer on the crank. I follow Fords advice and use sealant (Rite-Stuff) on the in the hub key way. The ARP bolt I purchased came with installation instructions that included where to use the moly and ARPs torque spec.
Ok question..I have both the stock length bolt from ARP and the longer 206-1001 bolt. The stock length bolt came with the lubricant, the longer one didn't. I was advised to use the lube. Also, I'm using the si5900 sealant (same stuff ford uses) and putting some on the keyway, as well as a tiny bit around the bolt head. Is the rtv on the bolt head going to be an issue with torque or is it just extra assurance? Also, I've heard some issues with the hubs fitting on aftermarket cranks but not so much on the s197 platform. Is this going to be a problem with the Manley 8 bolt crank or is the snout the same OD? Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
Exactly what I did to install the harmonic balancer. Crank snout and damper hub are clean and dry. Apply very night coat of assembly lube to the hub so it will slide into the seal smoothly. Also applied lube to the seal with a little brush. Screwed draw bolt into crank. Applied RTV to the damper key way and started the hub on the snout by hand. Holding the damper in place and lining up the key way I slid the draw plate over the stud followed by the nut. Snugged hand tight, look to see it is all straight. Tighten the nut to draw the damper on the crank. If it is a very tight fit you can use motor oil on the crank snout. When the damper is on all the way remove the installation tool. I used ARP bolt and washer #156-2501 with ARPs lube brushed on the threads and between the bolt head and washer. Torqued to 100 ft-lbs. I understand the sealant in the key way but don’t see what good sealant would be on the bolt.
As Midlife stated, no need for sealant under the bolt head, just a small dab needed to seal the keyway to the balancer. With the lip on the balancer seating into the timing cover seal, the keyway creates a small channel where oil can make its way out. Adding more won't add insurance, it will just mess with your torque reading when tightening the crank bolt. I've forgotten the dab of silicone before and in 40,000 km on my old explorer, there was a small oil sweat so it doesn't need much to seal it.
I'm sure this will get some hate, but when I called ARP tech to ask questions, they also recommended red loctite. It will take an impact to remove later, of course, but this precludes any chance of the bolt backing out.
No hate here but locative in not recommended in the instructions that come with the bolt. Using their lubricant on the threads and under the bolt head is.
I use a small 3 jaw puller to remove the OEM damper and this is the OTC damper install/removal tool set I chose. It will work on several different vehicles. You can find this tool set and others that will work in the Summit Racing catalog.
