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BruceH

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2 degrees is .56%. It's still pretty close and I'm going to believe that the modern cam grinding machinery is fairly accurate. Sometimes you just have to call it as good enough for my purposes. I don't like doing that because it really messes with my ocd but it was the only thing I could do.
 

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2 degrees is .56%. It's still pretty close and I'm going to believe that the modern cam grinding machinery is fairly accurate. Sometimes you just have to call it as good enough for my purposes. I don't like doing that because it really messes with my ocd but it was the only thing I could do.

I'm with ya, sometimes you just have to know when to walk away.:thumb:
 

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2 degrees is .56%. It's still pretty close and I'm going to believe that the modern cam grinding machinery is fairly accurate. Sometimes you just have to call it as good enough for my purposes. I don't like doing that because it really messes with my ocd but it was the only thing I could do.

I've never found an engine where both banks match, usually a bank is 2 degrees or more off, that is the more important thing, make them match, that clears my head after is build. That kind of worries are worse than OCD, lo. Even with good machining, tolerance stack will account for such differences.
 

05stroker

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I've never found an engine where both banks match, usually a bank is 2 degrees or more off, that is the more important thing, make them match, that clears my head after is build. That kind of worries are worse than OCD, lo. Even with good machining, tolerance stack will account for such differences.

I know for a fact mine are. Every time I run the numbers I get the same reading on both banks. I just cant figure out why I am ending up with 118.
 

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That would tell to skip a tooth and advance then some with the TFS but does not sound right, that's 16 degrees off and that is a LOT.
 

BruceH

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That would tell to skip a tooth and advance then some with the TFS but does not sound right, that's 16 degrees off and that is a LOT.

Two teeth on the phaser side. I wonder if there is a manufacturing defect in the crank gear or if it's off by a little? One tooth on the crank side is worth a little over 17 degrees.

Billy, do you have a double keyed crank? If so is there any chance that the crank gear has been located on the wrong keyway?
 

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Two teeth on the phaser side. I wonder if there is a manufacturing defect in the crank gear or if it's off by a little? One tooth on the crank side is worth a little over 17 degrees.

Billy, do you have a double keyed crank? If so is there any chance that the crank gear has been located on the wrong keyway?

That would put us in 102 and we want some retard so that is the TFS suggestion but I really would not do anything else until finding what the hell is going on.

I would look into that (key)

Can you take pics?
 

05stroker

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That would tell to skip a tooth and advance then some with the TFS but does not sound right, that's 16 degrees off and that is a LOT.

Not sure what I am going to do yet.

Two teeth on the phaser side. I wonder if there is a manufacturing defect in the crank gear or if it's off by a little? One tooth on the crank side is worth a little over 17 degrees.

Billy, do you have a double keyed crank? If so is there any chance that the crank gear has been located on the wrong keyway?

I do have a double key crank, but it is 180 deg around and the new one is a larger keyway then stock. I have a new set of crank gears coming, I cant find my spacer for the one I have now. I am going to install them strait up next weekend and see what I come up with.


I have to think it may be due to the welded lifters I used. I am going to order two solid lifters as well. I shouldn't since I am finding max valve lift and going from there. If I was doing it like gmitch is then yes it would throw off everything since the valve is opening sooner then it should.
 

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If I remember correctly when my engine builder checked my comp 127300 cams they were something like 14* advanced from what the card shows and the intake centerline on the 127300's is supposed to be 101* so that would mean mine were in the 115* range. We didn't bother writing it down but I know he was very surprised how far advanced they actually were.
 

05stroker

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If I remember correctly when my engine builder checked my comp 127300 cams they were something like 14* advanced from what the card shows and the intake centerline on the 127300's is supposed to be 101* so that would mean mine were in the 115* range. We didn't bother writing it down but I know he was very surprised how far advanced they actually were.

Well, I will know for sure after I set them strait up with a stock crank gear and re set them.
 

BruceH

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That would put us in 102 and we want some retard so that is the TFS suggestion but I really would not do anything else until finding what the hell is going on.

I would look into that (key)

Can you take pics?

I'm not making suggestions, just postulating about what could of happened.
 

BruceH

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Maybe the lobe ramps aren't identical for the open and close? Do you know what you have for readings during max lift only? Maybe they are closer to the advertised icl? I'd think that taking the max lift only readings would be more accurate. Just thinking out loud.

I can this weekend I am in San Antonio all this week. I did take theses though.


.050 before max lift.



.050 after max lift.

 

05stroker

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More related to the crank/cam gear location without the wheel.


Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Maybe the lobe ramps aren't identical for the open and close? Do you know what you have for readings during max lift only? Maybe they are closer to the advertised icl? I'd think that taking the max lift only readings would be more accurate. Just thinking out loud.

I have some new Trick Flow crank gears and two adjustable lifters coming along with a 18" Moroso degree wheel and a Comp Cams adjustable crank socket for the wheel. I will check both methods this weekend. I feel the welded lifters are the issue. The valve is open when the cam is at minimum valve lift, even when the exhaust valve opens.
 

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I feel the welded lifters are the issue. The valve is open when the cam is at minimum valve lift, even when the exhaust valve opens.
That's probably it right there. Makes sense.

I made adjustable lifters so I didn't have to deal with this. The only issue is getting them to zero tolerance. It's a bit of a dance. Well at least with mine. I can't adjust them with the cams in.
 

05stroker

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That's probably it right there. Makes sense.

I made adjustable lifters so I didn't have to deal with this. The only issue is getting them to zero tolerance. It's a bit of a dance. Well at least with mine. I can't adjust them with the cams in.

I found a post that Scott made that showed where he drilled out two followers to be able to adjust the Trick flow units in place, looked like a solid plan to me.
 

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I found a post that Scott made that showed where he drilled out two followers to be able to adjust the Trick flow units in place, looked like a solid plan to me.

I just modded up some stock ones with some button heads. They could be better.
 

crownaviation

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I found a post that Scott made that showed where he drilled out two followers to be able to adjust the Trick flow units in place, looked like a solid plan to me.

I saw that too.. great idea especially when you have a ton of them laying around lol.

Any progress?
 
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