Lowering Engine/Subframe

[Rick Simons]

I'm in the process of pulling my trans (TR3650) for a clutch replacement, and access to the top bellhousing bolts looks like it'll be tricky at best. I just had the thought that maybe I could lower the subframe, engine, and trans together by about 2" to get better access to those bolts.
Has anyone used this strategy?
Plan B is to pull the intake manifold to get to them.

 

[Juice]

As I understand it, plan B is the 'factory' method.
That said, you can do it any way you can and what works for you. I have a really long extension I bought just for that reason, and used a swivel impact socket to reach those top 2 bolts. But not in an s197.

 

[Midlife Crises]

You can reach the passenger side bellhouse bolts from the top easy if you remove the battery and tray. The drivers side is more challenging.

 

[Rick Simons]

You can reach the passenger side bellhouse bolts from the top easy if you remove the battery and tray. The drivers side is more challenging.

Good idea; it'll take all of 4 minutes to pull the batt & tray.
I can't even see the one on the driver's side but I'm sure it's there. As an added bonus, the right side header rests on the frame when I lower the engine as far it'll go, and I already pulled the lower end of the steering shaft off to move it out of the way because the left header rested on it when I first dropped the engine. Hopefully I can shift the engine far enough left for it to drop far enough. I just recently R&R'ed the headers and I don't want to do it again if I can help it. Ugh!

 

[Midlife Crises]

If that top drivers side bolt is the last one you try to reach it will be the most difficult to loosen. Just the way my luck works. Also, I’ve been told the Ford Manual says that removing the transmission from the GT500 requires lowering the K member, engine, transmission as a unit, a few inches to access the bellhouse bolts because the engine can not be tipped back without the blower and manifold hitting the firewall. I remove the blower and intake manifold to prevent smashing the intercooler lines.

 

[86GT351]

My guys here at the shop use a long extension with a swivel. Obviously the Transmission mount is unbolted and a support jack are used to lower the transmission to the appropriate angle to access the bolts.

 

[LikeabossTM]

My guys here at the shop use a long extension with a swivel. Obviously the Transmission mount is unbolted and a support jack are used to lower the transmission to the appropriate angle to access the bolts.

Further to this, i did the same for the top left side, after i cracked it free with a regular old box end wrench from the top (with another wrench box end hooked over the open end of the first wrench for leverage). There was only about one position where it worked (maybe 10 o'clock, can't remember exactly) and i had to slip the box end of the wrench onto the bolt head by feel.

 

[Racer47]

I remove all 4 bolts from the back of the k member and add 2 long bolts. Then loosen the front bolts of the k. This allows the engine and trans to tip down a lot more than just flexing the motor mounts. This makes the top bell bolts easier to get at and also makes the trans a lot easier to get out.

 

[Mach2burnout]

I took all the bold out of my k-member and lowered it about 2”. Did it on Jack stands and a floor Jack. It was tricky and a little sketchy at times, but it worked.
I have a lift now, I’d just drop it all out the bottom if I were to do it again.


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[Curtis B]

I did the same thing this fall, and found that with a really long extension set I could reach both top bolts from underneath with a ratchet and undo them without a problem. I didn't need to touch the k member. I think I had a 30'" and 10" extension together to reach but they came out quite easily with a long solid extension. That also assumes you have removed the transmission mount and are using a jack which will allow you to lower the trans a bit and see both top bolts easily. The biggest challenge I had was actually getting the transmission input shaft to slip past the clutch. There was insufficient room for the transmission to actually come out without a little hammer work on the underside of the trans tunnel.

 

[Rick Simons]

I remove all 4 bolts from the back of the k member and add 2 long bolts. Then loosen the front bolts of the k. This allows the engine and trans to tip down a lot more than just flexing the motor mounts. This makes the top bell bolts easier to get at and also makes the trans a lot easier to get out.

I like this plan; pretty much what I was going to try next after I pull the intake manifold.

 

[Rick Simons]

I took all the bold out of my k-member and lowered it about 2”. Did it on Jack stands and a floor Jack. It was tricky and a little sketchy at times, but it worked.
I have a lift now, I’d just drop it all out the bottom if I were to do it again.


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Are those rear bolts M12?

 

[Racer47]

M12 seems right but I'm not 100% positive. Its been a while since I've had my trans out.

 

[RED09GT]

13mm head size.
I take the 10 minutes to pull the intake. It is pretty simple on these cars.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

I always jack up the transmission and it gives plenty of clearance on the back of the intake to get to the bolts.

 

[Rick Simons]

13mm head size.
I take the 10 minutes to pull the intake. It is pretty simple on these cars.

Intake is off; all of a leisurely 20 minute job. I bet those top bellhousing bolts are reachable with the stock intake. I have the FRPP manifold, which gives me about 3/4" of space between it and the firewall. I got my friend's transmission jack; tranny is coming out tonight.

 

[Rick Simons]

Ugh! This is not fun. I got the trans bolts loose and the trans moved back, but the slave cylinder line elbow is smack hard against the tunnel, so I can't get it further back to clear the clutch in order to drop it. I could rotate it but that would mean loosening the safety chains on the jack, which I'd rather not do. Plus, the engine won't drop any more at the rear, this is with both motor mount bracket to isolator bolts loose and the jack under the oil pan loose. It definitely looks like I'm lowering the K member tonight.

 

[Racer47]

I know. Its a pain. The trans is big and the tunnel is small. Its a bitch of a job. Rotating the trans does help.

 

[Rick Simons]

I know. Its a pain. The trans is big and the tunnel is small. Its a bitch of a job. Rotating the trans does help.

Well I fooled around with a little more last night, but ran out of time. Incredibly, the front of the trans will have to come down at least 3" in order to move rearward enough in order for the input shaft to clear the PP. I put a floor jack under the oil pan and k member with a block of wood across both, then loosened the front k member nuts and removed the rear bolts and replaced one on each side with a longer bolt from the trans x-member. This dropped the back of the block about 1", but I'll still need to drop it further. The next step is to get a couple of longer M12 bolts, maybe 100mm or longer. These will go in a rear mounting hole on each side to keep the k member somewhat in place while I lower it and the engine together.
Man, I miss my '70 Road Runner! 30 minutes to pull the transmission.

 

[Racer47]

I agree. I remember changing top loader transmissions by laying them on my chest, sliding under the car and installing it by hand.

There are 2 aluminum ears on the trans that you can cut off after its out. That will make putting it in a little easier. I also took a hammer to the front of the tunnel and dented it in a little for more room.