replacing a 4.0L

[Oliver]

I have a 2006 deluxe convertible with a 5 speed manual transmission.
The 4.0 is at about 196000 miles, although still running good but I'd rather get ahead if an issue if possible.
My question is 2 fold.
1) Is the 4.0 found in the mustang different than those found in Explorers? Is the setup the same as in a mustang? Is not what is different or unique with either motor?
2) please don't flame me (too badly) but would I be better off with a coyote swap for the money?
Mustang 4.0 engines seem to be fewer in number than the average v8.......
Even reman/rebuilt 4.0 are more expensive than the equivalent v8.
Thanks in advance for the (semi)flame free advice and comments.

 

[Juice]

If it does not:
Smoke
Make bad noises.
No fault codes/CEL and emission ready.

Just leave it alone.
Now if you have any specific issues, what are those?

Coyote swap is going to cost a LOT more.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

If it does not:
Smoke
Make bad noises.
No fault codes/CEL and emission ready.

Just leave it alone.
Now if you have any specific issues, what are those?

Coyote swap is going to cost a LOT more.

This. Juice's car was originally a V6 so he can speak from experience.
Furthermore, the Cologne 4.0L V6 has a reputation for being pretty robust and capable of very high mileages so don't let yours put you off. Just keep up with the preventative maintenance.
The only real design flaws are:

1. The plastic thermostat housing is prone to leak, but an aftermarket aluminum replacement takes care of that issue.

2. One of the two timing chain assemblies is at the rear of the engine, making its replacement an expensive engine out job if you're paying someone else to do it.

 

[JimC]

The 4.0 is a really strong engine and if cared for will last a long time. The plastic thermostat housing is the biggest problem, followed by the plastic timing chain guide. Replace the thermostat housing with the aluminum one and keep driving if like Juice said it isn't giving you any problems.

My 2006 I ran a 75 shot of nitrous on it for 2 years. I pulled the nitrous off at 90,000 miles and put the Xcharger supercharger on it. It was still running strong (other than that stupid plastic thermostat housing that I replaced) when I sold it with 203,000 miles on it. The guy I sold it kept driving it and sold it with 245,000 on it, and still running strong.

 

[osgruber327]

Thanks All for your insight and direction.
It still runs like a champ but I was unsure about its long-term survival. I feel much better now.
On a side note, where might I find the aluminum thermostat housing?
Thanks again!
Oliver

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

https://www.partsgeek.com/xj3r31x-ford-mustang-engine-coolant-thermostat-housing-assembly.html

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Aluminum...s-with-1-Sensor-2006-2007-2008-2009/231989320

It seems several places are out of stock so your best bet is to check eBay.

 

[Cancerman]

I just completed a 4.0 resurrection on an 08 5 speed car. I found here in Florida, a guy who runs a small shop from home re manning 4.0's. $900 plus $150 core. My motor was locked up so it was not a usable core. I bought the car for 2K. Base coupe. I removed my dead motor and loaded it in my F150. Took it to him after talking to him. About a 3 hour drive. He gave me $50 for the heads. He goes through a good core, rings, bearings, gaskets, block honing, cleaning, all seals and gaskets, surfaces the heads after inspections, seals, etc. Upgrades all the timing gear parts as well. No water pump or thermo housing. Got my Aluminum one off Ebay. Blue hose kit, new radiator, belt, plugs, 8mm wire set. Added a Dynomax thrush muffler to quiet down the little boy fart can that was on it as well. Fired right up. Just coming up on my first oil change from break in. Zero problems except for the change from a 4 gauge cluster to a 6 gauge cluster, requiring a Forscan interface and download, and learning what the hell I'm doing. All's good except for a idle to 1500 rpm surge / stumble. The car came with cold air intake and I expect it was never reprogrammed. Working through that now. Another learning curve. I'm into the motor swap and all for around 2K. I remind you, I have done all the labor myself. This car is not an easy car to R & R a motor out of. I have no car lift. Just the car about 2 ft off the ground and my engine hoist and engine stand. I don't know that I would want to do it again at 64 years old.

 

[DieHarder]

Agree on the old age challenges. Was a Lot easier pulling engines when I was in my 20's...in fact, actually enjoyed it. Glad now if I can just do all of the maintenance items...;D

 

[Cancerman]

Replace your plastic thermostat housing with an aluminum one. Run a 180-ish thermostat if you live anywhere warm with a fresh radiator, they are less than $100. The cam gears, chain, guides and tensioners are a weak point after 100k miles. Aftermarket have improvements for replacements. Even the FOMOCO replacements now are better than what came in them. Keep good clean oil and filter in it. That's part of what kills the tensioners is dirty contaminated oil. Keep an eye on your cooling system, waterpump, belt, etc. Don't run it hot. If you rebuild it or have your heads off use something like Cometic gaskets. The engines are very tough if you follow these things. But if you abuse it, hell you can break anything. I did all these things with my reman 4.0. A free flowing muffler, or real dual help it breathe. Don't put a fart can on it. The drone will make driving it unbearable. I have a Cold air intake on mine from the previous owner. It have a tuning problem that I'm working through. Don't do it unless you are willing to deal with the tune issue. Just my thoughts. These are recommends for street use of course.

 

[mach2race]

In my opinion, don't do a coyote swap. You could buy a GT for what the swap is going to cost you in money ,time and aggravation. The 4.0 is a great motor. The timing chain is expensive and my mechanic suggested putting in a reman short block, than to pull a high mileage motor and do all timing chain sets. If I went the route of installing a new / remain block, you could always hop-up the power on a 4.0 I had one years ago and did the typical cold air kit, demon coil, plugs and wires and it definitely made a difference. I would put some "gear n da rear" and if you really wanted to run with a coyote, Supercharge / turbo that 4.0 I also agree with a previous post and get the aluminum thermostat housing. The plastic will cause you problems, sooner or later. If you like the car and its worth the money, go with a reman / new block. If not, sale it for what you can and buy a GT. although, its a terrible time to buy a used GT. Prices are stupid high, right now

 

[Juice]

In my opinion, don't do a coyote swap. You could buy a GT for what the swap is going to cost you in money ,time and aggravation. The 4.0 is a great motor. The timing chain is expensive and my mechanic suggested putting in a reman short block, than to pull a high mileage motor and do all timing chain sets. If I went the route of installing a new / remain block, you could always hop-up the power on a 4.0 I had one years ago and did the typical cold air kit, demon coil, plugs and wires and it definitely made a difference. I would put some "gear n da rear" and if you really wanted to run with a coyote, Supercharge / turbo that 4.0 I also agree with a previous post and get the aluminum thermostat housing. The plastic will cause you problems, sooner or later. If you like the car and its worth the money, go with a reman / new block. If not, sale it for what you can and buy a GT. although, its a terrible time to buy a used GT. Prices are stupid high, right now

IMO, your opinion is wrong.
I will take the coyote over the 3v.
The swap into any car with a modular engine is practically direct bolt-in.
Its the wiring and tuning thats the hard part.

 

[DieHarder]

Opinion's vary.... Not everyone has the ability (without a lot of help) or money to do a Coyote swap. Really the reason I went with a DOB upgrade. About 1/10 the work. Agree with the wiring/tuning/getting the gauges to work, tuning, all of the other BS; etc, etc, etc... If one isn't familiar with all of the systems pulling off the swap it can challenging to nightmarish.

 

[Juice]

I had no previous experience with these 'modern' cars.
The last build was my 91, way more simple.
Spent a ton of time researching, came up with a plan and did the swap.
If using a Gen 1 computer, its not too bad, as the cluster/guages will work. I would not attempt a gen 2 or 3 swap.

 

[JonU]

Part way through a lower mileage engine swap after snapping a cam timing change on my wife's 2009 4.0 V6. 165K, Mobile One since new, inside the engine still looks new. Maybe I'm spoiled, but I'm used to running my Miatas for 300k with nothing but minor work. The 4.0 Cologne motor is needlessly complicated, the motor has to be pulled to repair and re-time the cam timing, and $200+ special timing tools are required. Add to that, lots of the parts are NLA from Ford. If it was my car, I would've moved on. Even tried to get a factory remanufactured engine through Ford at $4K. They recently decided to make them NLA because they can't get enough core heads. Even Ford has moved on from the 4.0 V6...

 

[Cancerman]

Part way through a lower mileage engine swap after snapping a cam timing change on my wife's 2009 4.0 V6. 165K, Mobile One since new, inside the engine still looks new. Maybe I'm spoiled, but I'm used to running my Miatas for 300k with nothing but minor work. The 4.0 Cologne motor is needlessly complicated, the motor has to be pulled to repair and re-time the cam timing, and $200+ special timing tools are required. Add to that, lots of the parts are NLA from Ford. If it was my car, I would've moved on. Even tried to get a factory remanufactured engine through Ford at $4K. They recently decided to make them NLA because they can't get enough core heads. Even Ford has moved on from the 4.0 V6...

If you were here in Florida, I'd turn you on to my guy who remans 4.0's, with a warranty, for $900 plus core, whic is $150. Mine runs great, enjoying my S197 stick car.

 

[My1stS197]

If you were here in Florida, I'd turn you on to my guy who remans 4.0's, with a warranty, for $900 plus core, whic is $150. Mine runs great, enjoying my S197 stick car.

Please give me his contact information. Just bought a 4.o for my son and just in case I ever need it done...