What have you done to your mustang today?

[StockishS197]

Got some new shoes on today. SVE X500s, 19x10 squared on 285/35/19 Nitto G2s

 

[graybeard]

I am glad there is someone else who has a Kenwood in their s197. There are so many different settings with this Kenwood, have to get use to them, then figure out how to save the settings.

The door speakers (woofers?) are shot, or under rated. With the bass tweaked up a bit, they distort. Turn the bass off and they sound OK.

There is an amp in the trunk, and what brand it is, I have no idea.

 

[graybeard]

StockishS197,
I like those 5-spoke wheels on the black '05.

 

[cavero]

I am glad there is someone else who has a Kenwood in their s197. There are so many different settings with this Kenwood, have to get use to them, then figure out how to save the settings.

The door speakers (woofers?) are shot, or under rated. With the bass tweaked up a bit, they distort. Turn the bass off and they sound OK.

There is an amp in the trunk, and what brand it is, I have no idea.

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Google image search on that logo says it's DD Audio (Digital Designs), not familiar with them either but seems like they've got a pretty good reputation for premium stuff.

 

[cavero]

I am posting my Blackstone laboratories results for my 05' GT. Everything looks good for 130K miles with 5W-30 Mobile 1 full synthetic and Motorcraft filter.

I am going to do the front timing set, phasers and oil pump, etc. but wondering if I should change out the rocker arms and lash adjusters? There is no metal in my last two oil analysis. Any input would greatly be appreciated.

I'd say yeah if you can do the rocker arms/followers. They had a revised design with better oiling and I know after mine gave out on a high RPM run, I think it's cheap insurance (compared to what happens if they fail). Mine had about 115k on them. Bearing seized and ground the roller and the cam down, glitter in the oil, and I ended up rebuilding the engine for five figures $$$$$.

Pics here:

Might be go big or go home time on my '06

Progress is slow, but progress is progressing. They said my engine's next into the assembly room

www.s197forum.com

 

[JC SSP]

I appreciate the input. I am leaning on doing the rockers and plungers.

 

[graybeard]

Today, the '05 GT is having all the new exhaust parts installed and welded.

The O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold is stuck. They don't want to break anything, so I may have to remove it myself.

The car should be done soon.

Later: Here are some photos of the exhaustive work. Re-used the tips that came with the car.

I like the sound.

 

[GriffX]

Today, the '05 GT is having all the new exhaust parts installed and welded.

The O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold is stuck. They don't want to break anything, so I may have to remove it myself.

The car should be done soon.

Last try, break off the sensor and use a normal long socket, these slotted lambda types are crap. In my case propane/butane torch was not hot enough and the slotted type widened and slip

 

[GlassTop09]

I am glad there is someone else who has a Kenwood in their s197. There are so many different settings with this Kenwood, have to get use to them, then figure out how to save the settings.

The door speakers (woofers?) are shot, or under rated. With the bass tweaked up a bit, they distort. Turn the bass off and they sound OK.

There is an amp in the trunk, and what brand it is, I have no idea.

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Yeah, even now I sometimes have to fall back on the manual to refresh my memory as to what section & setting(s) I need to access to do what I'm wanting to do w\ this "ancient" Kenwood DDS 995 unit...........most of the time, I keep forgetting that you can "lock" the equalizer setting access (which I do use once I get all set like I want..........to keep others from potentially messing w\ my setup..........that is, the very, very few folks that I'll actually let drive her........since she's a manual trans car...........almost a lost art\skill in the US........).

I'd say yeah if you can do the rocker arms/followers. They had a revised design with better oiling and I know after mine gave out on a high RPM run, I think it's cheap insurance (compared to what happens if they fail). Mine had about 115k on them. Bearing seized and ground the roller and the cam down, glitter in the oil, and I ended up rebuilding the engine for five figures $$$$$.

+1 here..............IMHO right on point, especially since there are no more OEM Ford 4.6L crate long block replacements to fall back on (unlike the old pushrod 302\351 engines......Ford still offers these in full crate replacement form to this day........). It would be very hard for me to trust a reman 4.6L Modular engine.......if looking for a quick solution & wasn't looking to up displacement.

So, unless you're actually planning to rebuild in near future, my recommendation will always be to do all up front to ensure your existing engine, that is in otherwise known good operating condition......regardless of mileage........stays that way (the cheap insurance method............upgrade any other known components that Ford has actually upgraded\improved from doing past root cause failure analysis since the production MY cycle\history of the vehicle you currently own "while you're in there"......if you actually open the engine up to do some maintenance\repair work........) because the majority of the time, you realistically will only get 1 shot at preventing a catastrophic engine failure from a component failure.........very lucky if 1 gets 2 or more chances to walk away from 1 (like I had happen to me w\ mine, got away from this potentially happening on 3 different occasions, 2 of those 3 times involved cam roller followers AND lash adjusters--the #7 intake valve lash adjuster failure that I missed during the #7 intake valve cam follower failure that spared the B2 Lunati VooDoo cam #7 intake lobe also ended up taking out the very same B2 Lunati VooDoo cam's #7 intake lobe w\ it--the upgraded cam follower design showed why Ford upgraded them when it took the same hammering from the lash adjuster losing 0* lash during valve actuation for 4 yrs w\o any structural failure whatsoever, just the roller contact surface receiving spalling damage.....unlike the original production design that literally flew apart just 5 months after initial cam upgrade because they "looked & felt good" thru my inspection, good thing I had learnt & was replacing them all w\ the FRPP Hot Rod cam install anyway at the time--so I also speak from actual experience..........you don't want to keep pushing it........you WILL eventually roll snake eyes at some point.........not an IF scenario IMHO........Ford has already determined that these original production line designed 3V Modular parts......regardless of MY.........are suspect.......).

Not a scare tactic.................just being real w\ no "sugar" being applied.........so take it for what it's worth.............

All it takes is just 1 of them failing at the wrong time...............could've, would've, should've & I wish I'd have........is too late after this happens................

My 2 cents.....................once again.

In the end, it's your dime thus your time..............

 

[GriffX]

Not my car - found this picture - what is the reason for this? Camshaft and head gone?

 

[MrBhp]

The head can be repaired. Camshaft is toast. No idea why it happens. Age? Poor service?

 

[StockishS197]

Probably caused by lack of adequate oil pressure at idle. On 3vs, the cam caps are usually the first to go. Those cam lobes look real dry and sus. Not a nice polished finish

Would be curious if they would be able to line hone and insert new bearings considering the cam cap and head don’t have inserted bearings.

 

[GriffX]

Probably caused by lack of adequate oil pressure at idle. On 3vs, the cam caps are usually the first to go. Those cam lobes look real dry and sus. Not a nice polished finish

Maybe the blown chain tensioner gasket problem? Never ignore chain noise at startup, on any engine.

 

[GriffX]

Today, the '05 GT is having all the new exhaust parts installed and welded.

I noticed the tank air deflectors (?) are gone. I guess you can insert a NBR/SBR rubber sheet instead.

 

[graybeard]

Griffx,
That bushing was used by the mechanic to space the exhaust pipe before welding. I didn't see it when I took the photo. The mechanic removed it.

I was not aware of any deflectors used on the off-road system. Does it require some?

Now that the exhaust noise is less, I'm hearing noises not noticed before.

 

[JC SSP]

I removed those when I did my subframe connectors. The rubber was rotted and they got in the way of the ladder bar style I have. I don’t think they are that important but will default to others that know more about the part.

 

[graybeard]

Sounds like there's a tune that has the rear O2 sensors shut off, in which case those readiness monitors will never go ready.

Gabe,
How are the downstream O2 sensors turned back 'ON'?

Also, the CHECK ENGINE light does not come ON.

How do I find the optimum tune now that this '05 GT has been re-catted and re-muffled?

Thank you for your reply.

 

[Gabe]

Gabe,
How are the downstream O2 sensors turned back 'ON'?

Also, the CHECK ENGINE light does not come ON.

How do I find the optimum tune now that this '05 GT has been re-catted and re-muffled?

Thank you for your reply.

The sensors being off keep the Check Engine light from coming on.

You would need a new tune to have them turned back on, if you don't have access to the original tuner. But if you do, they can just send/upload a revision with the sensors back on .

 

[GriffX]

I was not aware of any deflectors used on the off-road system. Does it require some?

No idea, just noticed. And didn't know that it can rot off.

Now that the exhaust noise is less, I'm hearing noises not noticed before.

That is the game

 

[Forty61]

Replaced my brakes, took it out to bed them in following the directions in the box.. front pads were smoking when I pulled up, car has almost no stopping power now. Literally NEVER had a brake bed, on any vehicle, go wrong until this one.. need to make sure I'm not losing fluid somewhere (pedal doesn't hit the floor so I don't think so).. maybe the pads glazed over, the instructions in the box were, um, aggressive for how to bed them.