My 4.6 forged build

swflastang05

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I would upgrade the springs while it's easy to do, especially if you plan to have FI in the future. Not sure on the rings..mine didn't come with any instructions either so I called the place I ordered them from and they gave me the info. Either way glad to hear you're enjoying your build!
 

BeachMonkey100

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that's what I am thinking, just not sure on what springs at the moment! I will have to call CP and see what they say on the rings. and yeah it's awesome to see it all finally ready to go together!
 

BruceH

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This. I've done springs both ways and it's so much easier on a bench. If you plan on doing lockouts then just get the trick flow springs. They work with the stock retainers and cost about $200.

If you plan on keeping some part of vct I'd go with 26113 and not go over .550 for cam lift.


I would upgrade the springs while it's easy to do, especially if you plan to have FI in the future. Not sure on the rings..mine didn't come with any instructions either so I called the place I ordered them from and they gave me the info. Either way glad to hear you're enjoying your build!
 

BeachMonkey100

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This. I've done springs both ways and it's so much easier on a bench. If you plan on doing lockouts then just get the trick flow springs. They work with the stock retainers and cost about $200.

If you plan on keeping some part of vct I'd go with 26113 and not go over .550 for cam lift.


Some knowledgable information right there! and I don't plan on lock outs, don't think I'll ever be locking it out. Not really a cam person if I'm going FI for some reason.
 

BeachMonkey100

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Do you have a part number for the trick flow springs?


Edit: Found it,
Trick Flow TFS-15410-24 4.6 3 Valve Spring

I believe all I need are the springs, under their catalog it says "uses factory retainers", but under valve stem locks it gives "TFS-51900444", so do I have to use those locks or factory?

2nd Edit: After digging around and finding more information...

Trick flow also sells the same spring identical to the Comp Cams 26113 spring, part number tfs-16213-24 for just under $200 and retains factory hardware and locks. Not many people knew that trick flow made the two different types of springs just like comp but only cheaper and retains factory hardware saving you a little bit more money for the same thing. So what will I be doing? ordering the trick flow 16213 springs and calling it a day while still being all to retain all my factory hardware :)
 
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BeachMonkey100

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I guess you can say things are getting pretty serious lol, gapping piston rings today and making sure all the pistons are squeaky clean! I am still waiting on valve springs to be ordered and taking the heads to the machine shop, I still can't decide if I want to unshroud the valves or just leave the heads alone and go for a valve job, etc...

Edit: If anyone is wondering, I targeted my top ring to be .016" and my second ring .022". Oil rings weren't touched due to them having sufficient clearance!
 

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BeachMonkey100

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What's piston to wall clearance? Did you target 0.002"? I'm building mine with almost the same components!


What components are you using? And yes I had the machine shop target exactly .002" on the piston to wall clearance.

And after much reading in the last hour I need to open up my ring gaps a little bit bigger if I plan on running boost. I'm thinking .020 on the top and .024 on the second. My oil rings have like a 1/8" gap, it's the way they came from CP for my specific piston and bore size. So I assume that's correct. I'll have to get the correct measurement tomorrow.
 

BeachMonkey100

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Also as mentioned before I was curious about the oil ring rail gap, an average gap of them all is around .058". I found this really weird. I mean their straight from CP and I never touched them..normal?
 

BeachMonkey100

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Well the gap thing was in general lol, and I have decided not to touch my ring gaps and leave them right where they are after further discussions and thought.

what things are you missing yet?
 

Paps

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Everything...lol i mean, all my parts are in a cargo ship that has just left US and will arrive to Tahiti in 2 weeks. And i think i forgot to buy side main bearings bolts. I really really hope that those pistons will fit on my 60K miles block....from what i've seen during removal, it's in very good shape, but i can't tell for now. Waiting period
 

BeachMonkey100

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Everything...lol i mean, all my parts are in a cargo ship that has just left US and will arrive to Tahiti in 2 weeks. And i think i forgot to buy side main bearings bolts. I really really hope that those pistons will fit on my 60K miles block....from what i've seen during removal, it's in very good shape, but i can't tell for now. Waiting period


The donor motor I got had right around 80k on it and I had plenty if mets left in the cylinders for clean up to fit those pistons even with them only being .002" oversized. So my assumptions is you should be fine.
 

BeachMonkey100

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The motor is sold that's in the car (reason for tear down starting early), everything else is still a green light though! I was selling it mainly because I don't want an extra motor to add to what I have already in the shop lol, it just sold faster than I thought it would. I will be using everything I have so far for the build.
 

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