My 4.6 forged build

BeachMonkey100

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Alright got some head way tonight. Re checked all clearances and they were dead on, lesson learned.. Never using plasti gauge again in something this close in tolerances.

Bearings came out clean and were good, some assembly lube on all the bearings and it was a go.

I did have to turn the m8 studs out to get full threading on the nuts other than that it was smooth sailing.

Ended up with about .0078" end play, give a thousandth or so for oil wedge on the thrust bearing and mains.

Last were the main side bolts, all this pretty hardware looks to good to use lol.

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BeachMonkey100

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Had a early morning at work which means I got shit done quick and had some time to work on some stuff I brought :)

Out of the box on the left, and prepped on the right.

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BeachMonkey100

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Well the factory torx bolts used on the back of the oil pump were junk, I didn't like them from the beginning. Even after warming them up I couldn't get 4 out without stripping the heads, so I went to fastenal and got 8 new Allen head bolts same size and length.

Installed TSS oil pump gears, pre lubed with some 30wt oil, torqued back down with some red loctite.

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BeachMonkey100

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^^Yea those OEM bolts suck! One of mine stripped while I was torquing it down and I had to heli-coil it!

Let me rephrase what I said, I didn't strip the bolt or housing threads, I stripped the head of the bolt. I like an allen head over any other type head on a flathead machine bolt anyways, so getting these as replacements was just a no brainer. Easier to torque with as well.
 

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BeachMonkey100

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Same here. I found that they tore out at 120 inch pounds. For some reason I thought they needed 145 inch pounds but the actual callout is 100 inch pounds. I'm pretty sure that anything from 50-80 would hold them just fine.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106434&highlight=oil+pump


Well I have no clue what they were set at from melling, but it sure felt like a whole lot more than 89in pounds. Removing them was the worst, not sure if the coating on the backing plate made an adhesion with the bolts or what. their wasn't any thread locker on them so who knows.

I followed the ultimate 3v pump thread for torque. All torqued in cris cross pattern to 89 inch pounds with red loctite. It will be fine.
 

BeachMonkey100

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It's not a stupid question, I'll help anyone I can in the best way possible.

I wasn't removing material, I was simply deburring the piston. While doing this it removes any sharp edges which can lead to hot spots. There is also a theory of a polished piston vs a dulled one like mine. I believe in the dulled theory. If you google some and read up you can make your own choices, just have built enough and personally like mine prepped and deburred as the picture above.
 

BeachMonkey100

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Well today thought I would have the short block assembled, but I ended up cleaning out the garage first and straightening up. Ended up going to school for a bit to help with some new machines and got a free welding hood out of it, so I can't complain. It's a radnor dz48, pretty snazzy if I must say, almost like my miller basically.

Got back home, and finally to work a little bit.

Installed my rear free plug, along with rear plate and main seal.

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Then finally hung the rods on the pistons.

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Edit: thought this was pretty funny while putting the rear plate on.. I worked at a dodge dealership for about 2 weeks before I said **** you and left. (Poor management and horrible worker/employee relationships). But while I was there I did stock pile up on some goodies.

This is what was used for the gasket maker:

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BeachMonkey100

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Got the heads CC'd yesterday, not to far off for guessing while un shrouding the valves, all of them within .3-.4cc of each other. I do plan on having it decked .015" to clean up and square it, so I will get a little bit of CR back. The head is in definite need of squaring up, I hope .015" is enough. From what it measured out to be it should be enough.

Anyways that's the progress!
 

BruceH

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Got the heads CC'd yesterday, not to far off for guessing while un shrouding the valves, all of them within .3-.4cc of each other. I do plan on having it decked .015" to clean up and square it, so I will get a little bit of CR back. The head is in definite need of squaring up, I hope .015" is enough. From what it measured out to be it should be enough.

Anyways that's the progress!

Looks good. Have you gone over the head with a straight edge and feeler gauges?
 

BeachMonkey100

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Yeah I have, it's out every 4" by about .001-.0015". I would rather just have it fly cut to make sure it's square and also get some CR back while I'm at it.
 

BeachMonkey100

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Thanks bud! Hopefully going to get the heads to the machine shop Friday after work, their ready to go I just don't have the time until then with class after work and all that good stuff lol
 

BruceH

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Yeah I have, it's out every 4" by about .001-.0015". I would rather just have it fly cut to make sure it's square and also get some CR back while I'm at it.

That's not too bad. I'm sure you already know this but I'm going to say it anyway. Make sure the machine shop can machine the ra needed for an mls gasket.
 

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