My 4.6 forged build

[lito]

This is what was used for the gasket maker:

Oh no, that engine is doomed now! lol.

Looks like loctite 518.

 

[BeachMonkey100]

Oh no, that engine is doomed now! lol.



Looks like loctite 518.

lol I was waiting for someone to reply, it's pretty much the equivalent to 518.. Except free

 

[BeachMonkey100]

Also didn't want to worry about a turbo feed line port or running extra tees, etc to have oil pressure gauge and oil feed. So I took it upon myself to drill and tap a hole. Until turbo it will be plugged.

 

[crownaviation]

Use a NPT tap?

 

[BeachMonkey100]

Use a NPT tap?

Yes sir! After looking at the picture it does look weird, but it's 1/8 NPT. will be plugged until time for turbo.

 

[crownaviation]

Yes sir! After looking at the picture it does look weird, but it's 1/8 NPT. will be plugged until time for turbo.

 

[BeachMonkey100]

After sitting at work and having nothing else to do but think about what weight oil I should use for break in, it leads me to this.

The motor was assembled within factory specs, mains/rods: .0015", PTB: .002", Rod Clearance was: .011-.014". I will still be using VCT and all that good mess, so should I stick with 5w-20 or switch to something else for break in?

It's always easy to give information to others, but then when it comes to your own stuff you start to second guess yourself.

 

[BruceH]

After sitting at work and having nothing else to do but think about what weight oil I should use for break in, it leads me to this.

The motor was assembled within factory specs, mains/rods: .0015", PTB: .002", Rod Clearance was: .011-.014". I will still be using VCT and all that good mess, so should I stick with 5w-20 or switch to something else for break in?

It's always easy to give information to others, but then when it comes to your own stuff you start to second guess yourself.

I've always used conventional 5w-20 for break in. I got a little fancy with the current motor and added some jegs break in additive with the second oil fill. The whole reason I use stock clearances is so I don't have to reengineer things including fluids.

No matter what you go with I'd advise that the start up oil gets dumped rather quickly. Maybe 50 miles and a few light pulls at most. We don't have clean rooms to assemble our motors in and it shows in the amount of debris they collect just from sitting. I always bag the motors when not working on them but they still get lint all over the oiled surfaces so it must be inside too.

IMO it's very important that the oil be able to flow and form a wedge. We know without a doubt that 5w-20 does that with stock clearances. I'm sure you will get lots of opinions. I try to stick with what works.

 

[BeachMonkey100]

I've always used conventional 5w-20 for break in. I got a little fancy with the current motor and added some jegs break in additive with the second oil fill. The whole reason I use stock clearances is so I don't have to reengineer things including fluids.

No matter what you go with I'd advise that the start up oil gets dumped rather quickly. Maybe 50 miles and a few light pulls at most. We don't have clean rooms to assemble our motors in and it shows in the amount of debris they collect just from sitting. I always bag the motors when not working on them but they still get lint all over the oiled surfaces so it must be inside too.

IMO it's very important that the oil be able to flow and form a wedge. We know without a doubt that 5w-20 does that with stock clearances. I'm sure you will get lots of opinions. I try to stick with what works.

Agreed as well, I was going to use joe gibbs br30, but I can't get it as a sponsor anymore since I'm not racing or should put it haven't raced in over 6 months so I can't just be like hey I need this for my car lol. Because I'm certainly not paying that much for oil that like you said will be dumped within 50-100 miles.

I planned on 5w-20, but just wanted some food for thought while I had some time to think.

My shop where this is being assembled is clean as a whistle, moped every week, etc. But like you said.. Still dirty and will get lint inside the motor.

I have a buddy who use to work for RCR. Said they couldn't even stop lint from traveling all over the shop, of course it's not on the scale as ours, as they had ventilation set ups, someone cleaning the shop 24/7 etc. Stuff like that is inevitable (lint, dust) but if you be smart about it, no harm no foul.

To sum this rant up before class starts, I will most likely be picking up valvoline conventional 5w-20 as it's like 4.99 a quart right now. I have though in the past on different set ups used a thicker weight oil for break in for various reasons, but hey this is a mod motor and I'm still learning what's best for it.

 

[swflastang05]

I used Castrol "Dino" oil 10w 30 for my break in. However my clearances are on the very loose end of OEM and no VCT. Also will be running that for about 200 miles, FWIW.

 

[05stroker]

Run what you are going use in your motor. If you prime the motor well its just like starting the motor after it sits for a weekend. Once the oil is there it is there. If you are worried about your rings seating then just drive the piss out of it.

 

[lito]

If you want to go for some oil that is more dedicated for break in and not break the bank, the the mineral valvoline 10-30 VR-1 is quite good.

 

[crownaviation]

If you want to go for some oil that is more dedicated for break in and not break the bank, the the mineral valvoline 10-30 VR-1 is quite good.

That is what I use for break in. Lots of zinc

 

[lito]

And sulfur, like hell, lol. (it actually smells that bad)

 

[BeachMonkey100]

lol I was trying to find the vr-1 in 5-20 but couldn't. I have a little ways to go before worrying about oil.

Today I got the heads to the machine shop, most likely will be Monday or Tuesday when their done.

Also cut down the oil pump stud .170".
Got me some play doh, (made me feel old remembering how much I use to play with that stuff as a kid and hell I'm only 22 lol). And checked the clearance.

On the highest part of the pick up I have
.310" and on the lowest (nearest to the actual pick up hole) I have .369". Perfect!

 

[lito]

Only comes in 30 and 50

 

[BeachMonkey100]

Only comes in 30 and 50

I looked it up right after that post and saw that. I could probably get away with the 10-30 for break in.

 

[BeachMonkey100]

Made some radiator relocation brackets yesterday, after looking at some pictures I took a guess on length and went with it.

 

[BeachMonkey100]

** Also can anyone tell me the part numbers or sizes of the freeze plugs for the heads? I removed them and kept them in a baggie and have no freaking idea where the bag is now.. and the heads are at the machine shop so I have no clue. Every head kit I find is just big brass plugs, but I usually stray away from brass plugs and aluminum heads/blocks.

I know small ones that go in near the exhaust ports and then the normal bigger sized ones on the ends of the heads. I do have the screw in plugs so I guess that's a plus.

 

[BruceH]

** Also can anyone tell me the part numbers or sizes of the freeze plugs for the heads? I removed them and kept them in a baggie and have no freaking idea where the bag is now.. and the heads are at the machine shop so I have no clue. Every head kit I find is just big brass plugs, but I usually stray away from brass plugs and aluminum heads/blocks.

I know small ones that go in near the exhaust ports and then the normal bigger sized ones on the ends of the heads. I do have the screw in plugs so I guess that's a plus.

FRPP sells a mod motor plug and dowel kit.