Time for a THUMP tensioner??

Department Of Boost

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wow impressive work

Thanks. I can't wait to finish testing and then be able to make it look nice and move on to something else. I'm back on the dyno Tuesday for I hope the last of the testing. If my "geometry" works out all I need to do is make it pretty and then move on to the 1000 other things that are not done!:thumb:
 

b00stedgt

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Thanks. I can't wait to finish testing and then be able to make it look nice and move on to something else. I'm back on the dyno Tuesday for I hope the last of the testing. If my "geometry" works out all I need to do is make it pretty and then move on to the 1000 other things that are not done!:thumb:
Tell me about it. It just never ends. But anyways, I wish I had the skill to fabricate something like that
 

Born To Run

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Tensioner

Yeah i run a conservative AFR and hit that 6000 also. I was always told a tune will help preserve the motor but the RPM's is what will really kill it when you push a lot of power.

When is the Atoc NMRA event. Didnt have plans on going but now i might try to fit that into my schedule.

Atco NMRA is May 13-15,its a good event.
 

94tbird

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very cool. how did you have to modify the blower for that? Did you make the bracket yourself?

One thing i notice is that must be a 2.6L blower correct? If so part of your belt problems, if oyu had any on the single belt drive, are due to the blower flexing on the plate that mates thew blower to the manifold. thats why the plate on the 2.8L is like 8x thicker. Im using a Thump Racing Blower snout brace on mine.

Before the brace when revving the car, even in neutral, you could see the blower flex and the belt ride up onto the edge of some of the pulleys.
 

Department Of Boost

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very cool. how did you have to modify the blower for that?
The blower isn't modded but I made that entire snout and it bolts up like the stock one..

Did you make the bracket yourself?
Yep

One thing i notice is that must be a 2.6L blower correct?
Correct

If so part of your belt problems, if oyu had any on the single belt drive, are due to the blower flexing on the plate that mates thew blower to the manifold. thats why the plate on the 2.8L is like 8x thicker.
Take a look at the pics. I made that blower plate also. It's quite a bit thicker than the one that came with it. About 1mm and it is the same thickness for the entire surface.
:thumb:

Im using a Thump Racing Blower snout brace on mine.
Before the brace when revving the car, even in neutral, you could see the blower flex and the belt ride up onto the edge of some of the pulleys.
Wow, I had no idea!:wtf1: I started making this kit when I was at 8psi knowing I was going bigger so I never paid much attention to how the origonal stuff was set up.

Sometimes I hate my KB.
 
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94tbird

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you gonna market this? great way to start off in the business lol
 

Department Of Boost

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you gonna market this? great way to start off in the business lol

Probably. I still need to get everything sorted and put a lot of miles on the bearings though.

I've been keeping an eye on costs and I can make it for less than the Steeda/Whipple kit.
 

redstangs9308gt

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Well; does $395 sound right for a Thump RRR Racing HD Billet Aluminum Belt Tensioner w/100mm Idler? Like a person stated before me, my belt is shreding from the inside and only 1-3 ribs at a time. I have noticed that when I bounce off of my rev limter or when I shift gears quick while in boost I hear my belt slipping. Also how does a 100mm idler change belt length if any? MORE INFO RON!
 

firestang70

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I switched to the 6 rib Thumprrr and it took care of all my issues. I still think I have 2 brand new gates belts (never needed to use one since I had the tensioner and sold the car) I had the 3.375 pulley for 10 lbs boost. pm me if interested.
 

94tbird

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Well; does $395 sound right for a Thump RRR Racing HD Billet Aluminum Belt Tensioner w/100mm Idler? Like a person stated before me, my belt is shreding from the inside and only 1-3 ribs at a time. I have noticed that when I bounce off of my rev limter or when I shift gears quick while in boost I hear my belt slipping. Also how does a 100mm idler change belt length if any? MORE INFO RON!


a 100 mm idler will take up MORE slack in the belt, making the belt tighter. Are you sure your belt length can afford the change? Keep in mind the spring tension on the ThumpRRR tensioners far exceeds the stock tensioner. They have quite a bit more tension on the belt to help prevent slippage. I would stick with the stock sized 76mm pulley If i were you. Also to my knowledge whipple's have an adjustable idler pulley so you can change the tension on the belt system using that as well.

I still use a 76mm on my tensioner.

Call up peter tell him I sent you over. Hell hook you up.
 
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Props for 94Tbird - re: power steering pulley alignment

Is a thread old after a year? Naaaah... that's just getting started. lol

I'd seen your mention that: If a person totally seats a power steering pulley like when pulling it back on during 8 rib upgrade, that is probably too far back. That turned out to be true - and helped locate another problem. So thanks for the info! :thumb:

I'd put it on awhile ago and naturally had pulled the gd thing all the way on. :rant: Dammit, Murphy. Get outta my garage!

So I wondered if I could get to the pulley without taking everything apart. My 'stang is a 2006, so the thermostat housing is on the wrong side and so that and a bunch of other stuff is in the way. But yeah, it's possible from underneath without taking everything apart.

I could see it was off with a straight edge. Probably no room for a laser with everything together. This pic doesn't really show how far it's off, but ya' can see it with the straight edge pretty clearly:

straig10.jpg



This next pic shows that the puller assembly and wrenches can kinda' sorta' fit... and that the oil filter is in the way:

pullin12.jpg


Did ya' figure I'd go ahead and pull it TOO FAR? Yup, did that. Lame excuse: Well, mainly, the front lip on the PS pulley is considerably thinner than the front lip on the neighboring idler - at least on my car. That threw me off target at first. Here is pulling the pulley back on some. Filter no longer in the way. Focusing on grooves alignment, not the outer fat or thin lip:

pullin11.jpg



A couple other things: The alignment was much clearer with the oil filter out of the way. Guess that's obvious.

Next, all of my power steering pump's mounting bolts to the block and timing cover were LOOSE. I thought I'd better tighten them before aligning the pulley or I'd have a moving target. :pcshoot:

Finally, after overdoing it and undoing that - and stopping the pump from moving around!- on my particular car I probably brought the pulley forward only about 1/64". Probably not all that important to get that small an amount on this particular car, but it was worth the price of admission to find the loose PS pump bolts! And to know the alignment is at least close.

I'm guessing how far the pulley needs pulled on will vary by car; this is just the amount that my car seemed to want.

Next time, I'd definitely have the laser alignment tool on hand and light it up while everything was dismantled and out of the way.

Mick
 
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