2008 ROUSH Stage 3 Build...Take III

[eighty6gt]

Its fine...it sits right next to the inlet tube:

Huh, there we go. Just need to figure how my PCV system/catch can are going to get in and around there. Thanks.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Huh, there we go. Just need to figure how my PCV system/catch can are going to get in and around there. Thanks.

I installed my cans behind the bumper...

 

[eighty6gt]

Decent idea - oil will not like crawling way up out of there. I was originally going to put mine on the tab on the driver's strut tower. Once I get everything mocked up I'll just see if an elegant line routing seems to exist.

 

[QuickShift281]

Got some work done on the motor in the past few days...

Looking good! You do very clean and precise work! Nicely Done!

 

[AutoXRacer]

Installed the clutch and bell housing:

Flywheel and back plate.

1st disc.

Floater.

Clutch done!!!

Oh darn, forgot to take pics of the bell housing...

Open up and say AAAAAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

VMP Tuning 67mm GT500 throttle body; all the benefits of the FRPP mono-blade without all the drive-ability issues.

VMP GenII blower case...

Next steps are the install the starter and headers...then its back in the engine bay!!

 

[AutoXRacer]

Got some major work done this weekend!!

Starter in

Heat wrapped the starter to protect it from the hot headers.

I am not sure about these locking bolts. You torque them to OEM specs 18 ft/lbs, but to get the locking tabs to the next locking position, you end up torquing those bolts to 2-3 times the torque spec.

Left hand side

Motor in!!!

Transmission in!!

Now for the small stuff... Looking to start it by this weekend!!

 

[eighty6gt]

3x the spec, YIKES. Usually that breaks small bolts like that.

Did I ever send you another PM about that rail?

 

[AutoXRacer]

3x the spec, YIKES. Usually that breaks small bolts like that.

Did I ever send you another PM about that rail?

Tell me about it, I am paranoid. Wondering what that will do once the flange heats up. Its either 18ft/lbs or less if you want the locks to be engaged. At 18ft/lbs, the tabs where too far away from the header tubes.

I did not know what to do. The bolts are stout!! They are ARP like strong.
We'll see what happens. I hate going over OEM specs.

I did get your PM... I'll reply.

 

[eighty6gt]

So basically moving over less than say 1/6th of a turn doubled or tripled the torque.

man, you'd think Stage 8 would have it figured out and use splines to install the tab... I can't tell from the pictures.

 

[BadPiggy]

So basically moving over less than say 1/6th of a turn doubled or tripled the torque.

man, you'd think Stage 8 would have it figured out and use splines to install the tab... I can't tell from the pictures.

My Stage 8's are splined.

 

[AutoXRacer]

So basically moving over less than say 1/6th of a turn doubled or tripled the torque.

man, you'd think Stage 8 would have it figured out and use splines to install the tab... I can't tell from the pictures.

This is what is looks like:

But getting the tabs (those tear drop locking things) to sit on the next locking position does require at least a 1/4 turn on those fasteners.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I think I have an issue...

I think the balancer is not all the way seated although I torqued it to the speced 90 ft/lbs.

See what the belt is doing on the tensioner...?

Hard to see it on the water pump pulley, but the belt moves away from the inner edge as it gets closer to the balancer. What the??

This is how much clearance I have from the timing cover; approx 0.38":

If I remember correctly, it should be a lot closer.

 

[one eyed willy]

Mine almost touches the cover

 

[05stroker]

How did you install the balancer?

 

[AutoXRacer]

How did you install the balancer?

I used an installation bolt (longer bolt than the final install bolt) and once the balancer was half way onto the crank, I swapped bolts and torqued it until I hit 90 ft/lbs.

Not sure why it stopped so far way from the timing cover.
I guess I will be removing and reinstalling it... sigh

I hate removing and installing balancers.

 

[JimIII@JDM]

Just throwing it out there, is your idler on the tensioner facing the right direction? I can't tell because it's aftermarket but it looks like it sits back further. Here is a stock one for reference.

 

[BadPiggy]

^
I think Jim might be onto something.

 

[dysan]

I don't think you can go by the 90ft/lbs torque rating to seat the dampener. My I.W. dampener took a lot more than 90 to seat it. We went to town with an impact gun to get it seated fully. Maybe that's why you had the markings on the tfs timing gears because the dampened wasn't fully seated.

 

[AutoXRacer]

No, that tensioner came from Steeda as is. I have never messed with it. It worked fine on the previous two motors; belt was aligned perfectly.

I thinks its a matter of the balancer not being fully seated... I remember on the last motor the balancer being a lot closer to the timing cover.

Dysan, how much did you torque that bolt too...? I was nervous at 90ft/lbs...I did not want to bust the bolt or strip the crank snout. lol

 

[AutoXRacer]

So I spoke with Innovators West...seems like using a bolt to press in the balancer is not the way to go as it introduces more torque... So if I torqued it to 90ft/lbs, I'm actually under torqued and not fully seated. Weird that it works the last time (first install).

So I ordered this:

Another tool to add to the collection of 1 time tools; hopefully. LOL

This has a bearing that alleviates the torque that is introduced from bolt and washer pressing in the balancer.

Anyway...its probably just under torqued and not seated properly. sigh
I wonder if last time is wasn't seated 100% and thats why I saw that slight wear on the side of the TSF gears. Hmm... Although the belt was aligned on the pulleys.

So there goes my plan for start up this weekend.