Learning to make fast go fast!

crownaviation

http://www.tudyno.com/
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Are you drunk and working up your post count again?

That is a price of plastic. The garage maid was layed off to save money for mods...:naughty1:

lol on the double post and sorry at the same time. Yeah,, I figured you missed the towel after you were gazing at your shiny new setup... I would have kept the garage maid :naughty1: :beer: :asskiss1: but it explains the white goo on the floor also lol
 

05stroker

Never enough power guy!
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Fired the motor today, it sounds NASTY! I have two issues though. One is I for got to cap of the heater water supply line on the crossover so I made a little mess. I need to block it off tomorrow. The bigger issue is bank 2 is lean by two points lower then bank one. What do yall think? Vacuum leak? Analog 1 is bank 1 and analog 2 is bank 2

 

05stroker

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Swap injectors from one side to the other and see if it follows.
I will try it tomorrow. Does it matter wich side is the positive and negitive on an injector? I had to swap the connectors to install the ID2000s from the ID1000s I had before. Right now all injectors have the positive on the right side.
 

Department Of Boost

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I will try it tomorrow. Does it matter wich side is the positive and negitive on an injector? I had to swap the connectors to install the ID2000s from the ID1000s I had before. Right now all injectors have the positive on the right side.

That's a good question.

Found this on google:

The pink wires are not ground. They are the B+ supply. Meaning all hot, supplying constant power to, and more importantly through, the injector solenoid coil so as to saturate the solenoid coil. (Not exactly what happens, but I will use simple terms here). It is the solenoid ground wire that is color coded, and is switched to ground by the Engine computer to complete the circuit and fire the solenoid. The solenoid is designed such that when the constantly powered injector is grounded, the electrical fields in the solenoid collapse, and the injector fires. If you collapse the electrical field inside the coil from the wrong side of the coil, the square wave you would observe on an oscilloscope would not have the same starting and ending characteristics. The injector might work just fine, and since you will be calibrating your individual injectors to your individual motor, any change in injector characteristics would likely be accommodated for, but the injector design is not optimized. You could get field ringing in the coil, electrical hysteresis, and other oddities and ghosts. Best to follow the designers lead and switch the negative ground side. Their is likely a "+" sign on your injector body to indicate the positive side. Pink wires go to the "+" side.
 

05stroker

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Looking back at the below pic, the wires are reversed of how they come from the factory. This is an old pic with the factory connectors. On the factory connector the pin 2 is the 12v red wire on it is opposite of the retainer clip on the connector. I will try swapping the wires before swapping the injectors.

 

one eyed willy

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I don't think it would matter, I would start by just checking to make sure all the injectors are working. Maybe a bad connection on one injector is causing it read lean. Unplug a Injector from the richer side and see how lean it goes?
 

05stroker

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I pulled all the plugs and they all looked the same except #8. All had a nice grey tint to them but #8 was white as it could be. Im thinking that one isn't getting fuel. I swapped the wires around to the way they were stock and swapped sides on the injectors. That #8 injector is now on #4 so we can see if the issue swaps banks. Im going to wait a bit before making too much noise. My garage doors face my neighbors house.
 

05stroker

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Starts and idles much better. I guess the wires on the injectors do matter. I still have the bank to bank issue though. I did not follow the injectors. Next is to swap the factory o2 sensors and recheck and if that dosent move anything I will swap the WB o2 sensors and see if it follows them.

 

TexasBlownV8

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It matters with coils, 2V/3V use a polarity and is inversed on 4V and if you dont switch polarity you have blowout issues with almost any load.

Cant tell for injectors but I would install them with the correct polarity.

I would think it would matter, since it is 12v actuating a solenoid (the magnetic field in the coil will tend to pull or push the solenoid based on polarity..basic DC electromagnetism).

In your graph, enable the two "o2 volts" signals and see how they look, amplitude-wise. If those are similar, swapping the wb's would be a good test. If they differ, you could swap the stock sensors and see if the signal differences move or stay. That will rule out sensors.

Also something to consider, if you're able to do so easily, in addition to swapping the wb sensors, consider moving the wiring to the other sides as well, to read the opposite values. What I mean is, on the wideband, change the sensor feed to the wiring harness, so that A1 is now your A2 sensor, and A2 is now your A1 sensor. I found a problem with a wb controller that way.
 

05stroker

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Still getting the P0387 and the bank to bank difference even though I swapped the factory o2 sensors.

 
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