My cheap as dirt Coyote swap.. 06 GT 500 to the wheels for $5000

[Dino Dino Bambino]

No not really.. V6 chassis is quite competent for daily driving and can be upgraded gradually IF and WHEN you want. Brakes are quite good for daily driving, suspension is more than acceptable for daily commuting, are you after absolute performance? Or a budget performer which is what the Mustang WAS and IS truly about. It IS NOT EXPENSIVE to mod a Mustang or go Coyote. That is a BS MYTH from uninformed individuals.

I'm still amazed that you found a Coyote long block for only $250. That's normally the most expensive item in the swap. That said, used Coyote engines have become dime a dozen and other salvage parts are also easier to find used, so a swap can cost a lot less nowadays than it would have, say, five years ago.
Do post a video of your engine running after you fire it up, and update your parts list. It'll be a good reference for anyone else considering a Coyote swap.

 

[Juice]

I want to see receipts. By my calculations, there is close to 5Gs of supporting parts needed. Just headers and a clutch kit can set you back 2 grand. CNC porting is over 3 grand. These heads are nothing like restrictive castings heads of past where a monkey w/a die grinder could make significant porting gains. Not anymore.

 

[race4food]

CAlhoun porting Baton Rouge CNC $950 and is 330CFM. So pay the big name guys if you want. My option was a valve job for $250 or full CNC that included the valve job so it was stupid to not spend $700 for a full port job.
And there are headers all over the place on Facebook for $300-500. And the upgrades I did were after reselling leftovers so it’s not necessary to add to the cost.

 

[race4food]

Anyone know why I would not be able to connect to the PATs system?
I’m ready to fire up the engine but can not even see PATs through Forescan or through the guys at pop a lock speciality software.

 

[race4food]

I'm still amazed that you found a Coyote long block for only $250. That's normally the most expensive item in the swap. That said, used Coyote engines have become dime a dozen and other salvage parts are also easier to find used, so a swap can cost a lot less nowadays than it would have, say, five years ago.
Do post a video of your engine running after you fire it up, and update your parts list. It'll be a good reference for anyone else considering a Coyote swap.

I just looked through junkyard inventory. I actually bought 2 others recently and resold them.
There are $500 long blocks on Facebook all the time. That’s essentially where I could 90% of the parts. Only thing I got new was the harness from PBH.

 

[Suecra]

Anyone know why I would not be able to connect to the PATs system?
I’m ready to fire up the engine but can not even see PATs through Forescan or through the guys at pop a lock speciality software.

pretty sure it just has to be disabled. if not you need to run a box on the pats harness in the accessories if thats where it still is in coyote cars. this is as long as the keys have been programmed to the car.

 

[Carbuff91]

Any updates...did you get it fired up? Post some pics of the final product....good job!

 

[race4food]

 

[race4food]

Flashed the EEC and did a test turnover and fuel check. Changing out the oil pan now and should be driving Monday.

 

[Sigma6]

Have had this on the my watch list (following), being Monday. How’s it drive?

 

[LarryJM]

So just why can't a Gen 3 Engine be installed in a Gen 1 Mustang GT? I know for sure a Gen 2 can of you use a Gen 1 intake cam and phasers. I know someone here tried this with a Gen 2 Truck engine and with that, both cams needed to be replace because of a different firing order.

 

[Suecra]

So just why can't a Gen 3 Engine be installed in a Gen 1 Mustang GT? I know for sure a Gen 2 can of you use a Gen 1 intake cam and phasers. I know someone here tried this with a Gen 2 Truck engine and with that, both cams needed to be replace because of a different firing order.

If you put gen 1 timing components into a gen 2 you can pretty much plug and play, but you will end up needing a gen 1 pcm obviously. The internal components dont matter, its simply the timing components and what generation they are from. A gen 3 will flat out for sure not work if you mix ecu's between any generation with them because they are not running the same drivetrains (10r80 and mt82) are different. The throttle bodies between every generation are different so you can't run any of those mixed up between them, your tuner will throw a fit and tell you to put the correct one on. The more you mix your parts between the different generations the more complex things get, and it all revolves around your electronically controlled components not the mechanical aspect. The gen 3 short block also is different than the gen 1&2 so you can only put one or the other in. Some people put gen 2 heads on their gen 1 block and thats about it, gen 3 is out of the question.

 

[LarryJM]

If you put gen 1 timing components into a gen 2 you can pretty much plug and play, but you will end up needing a gen 1 pcm obviously. The internal components dont matter, its simply the timing components and what generation they are from. A gen 3 will flat out for sure not work if you mix ecu's between any generation with them because they are not running the same drivetrains (10r80 and mt82) are different. The throttle bodies between every generation are different so you can't run any of those mixed up between them, your tuner will throw a fit and tell you to put the correct one on. The more you mix your parts between the different generations the more complex things get, and it all revolves around your electronically controlled components not the mechanical aspect. The gen 3 short block also is different than the gen 1&2 so you can only put one or the other in. Some people put gen 2 heads on their gen 1 block and thats about it, gen 3 is out of the question.

Why can't you just change the cams from Gen 1 to a Gen 3 and plug and play like the Gen 2 in a Gen 1 Mustang GT using Gen 1 ECU and Throttle body? Then is there such a thing as a GEN 3 Truck Engine?

 

[race4food]

This is a Gen2 engine with the gen1 cams. Gen 3 will not communicate with the can-bus of the 05-09.

 

[Suecra]

Why can't you just change the cams from Gen 1 to a Gen 3 and plug and play like the Gen 2 in a Gen 1 Mustang GT using Gen 1 ECU and Throttle body? Then is there such a thing as a GEN 3 Truck Engine?

you cant mix the computers, the cams are internals, so not relevant. the throttle body needs to be the same generation as the ecu, thats just how it is. internals/mechanical doesnt matter, anything electrical does minus a few various parts.

 

[LarryJM]

you cant mix the computers, the cams are internals, so not relevant. the throttle body needs to be the same generation as the ecu, thats just how it is. internals/mechanical doesnt matter, anything electrical does minus a few various parts.

Well the real issue seems to be that the Gen 1 ECU can't operate the twin injection system of the Gen 3 engine. Then the Gen 3 ECU can't operate a GEN 1 Mustang GT. Some Ford dealers are now selling GEN 3 twin injection heads fully loaded for under $500 each. Lots of GEN 1 Junkyard motors with over 100000 miles for $4000. GEN 2 Truck engines under 50,000 miles seem to be around $2500. It interesting on how many Gen 1 Mustang GTs got over 150,000 miles before being wrecked.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

You could run any generation of Coyote engine in an 05-09 Mustang, and even a 7.3 Godzilla, using the appropriate Ford Performance Control Pack. The only problem is that it won't have your VIN flashed into it, and some emissions monitors won't be enabled, so it may not be street legal if your state requires them. Not a problem if you're building a pure race car. Otherwise your only option is to run an '11-'14 GT ECU with either a Gen 1 or Gen 2 engine fitted with Gen 1 Mustang cams/phasers. If you flash the VIN into the ECU and disable PATS, you can be up and running.
Junkyard motors with over 100k miles are cheap for a reason. With an unknown history and the inability to hear them running, you don't know if you're getting a bargain or a basket case. I think if I was going to swap in such a motor, I'd want to tear it down and refresh it first to make sure I have an engine that I know will last a long time (especially if I'm keeping the car for a few more years) rather than roll the dice and hope for the best. If it's an F-150 engine, you're going to replace the timing cover anyway with the Mustang equivalent so you can swap cams/phasers while you're there. You could also consider upgrading to a 13-14 GT500 oil pump (add billet gears if you like) with pick up tube, windage tray, and oil pan.

 

[OX1]

Can you use a gen 3 shortblock with gen one "everything" else?

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Can you use a gen 3 short block with gen one "everything" else?

Not quite. You can use the '11 heads because they were configured for 12mm head bolts and would bolt straight onto a Gen 3 block, but the '12-'14 heads were configured for smaller 11mm head bolts and won't work. Gen 2 heads also won't work on Gen 3 blocks for the same reason.
While the Gen 3 short blocks are reputedly stronger than the earlier versions, the PTWA thermal spray bore lining of the cylinders leaves no room for a rebore/hone. There have reportedly been PTWA failures in the left bank cylinders of some Gen 3 blocks, especially when subjected to the additional thermal stress of forced induction. The remedy is rather expensive (steel Darton sleeves).

 

[OX1]

Not quite. You can use the '11 heads because they were configured for 12mm head bolts and would bolt straight onto a Gen 3 block, but the '12-'14 heads were configured for smaller 11mm head bolts and won't work. Gen 2 heads also won't work on Gen 3 blocks for the same reason.
While the Gen 3 short blocks are reputedly stronger than the earlier versions, the PTWA thermal spray bore lining of the cylinders leaves no room for a rebore/hone. There have reportedly been PTWA failures in the left bank cylinders of some Gen 3 blocks, especially when subjected to the additional thermal stress of forced induction. The remedy is rather expensive (steel Darton sleeves).

Reason I ask is that it was stated you can get a new block, fully machined (I assume Gen 3), for $900-a grand. This would be a just in case kinda thing, which would get me a forged bottom end I can put together myself (if/ever). Not as attractive if I can't use my heads, upper end, electronics etc...