Best adjustable POLY UCA?

[fun4me]

I'm trying to decide which adjustable uca to go w/ for a 99% streetcar. I'm scared of so-called binding and the potential snap-oversteer it can cause, sounds extremely dangerous(even for a steetcar). Any suggestions? I like the idea of the WL and roush uca's, but they are not adjustable.

 

[Sky Render]

There's a "Search" link at the top of the page. Find it. Use it.

 

[fun4me]

Very helpful, thx. The only one I like is the METCO 2005-10 unit w/ the 11+ mount.

Anyone know how much negative pinion angle the WL uca will let you dial in w/ a 1.5" drop in the rear? Anybody use the WL uca?

 

[Roadracer350]

Look at the White Line UCA. Very durable and the bushing material is better than the poly but not as harsh as a rod end.

 

[OkieSnuffBox]

Look at the White Line UCA. Very durable and the bushing material is better than the poly but not as harsh as a rod end.

IIRC, even Terry Fair doesn't run an aftermarket UCA on his '11 GT (Whiteline included) because of the dramatic increase in NVH.

OP, why are you looking to replace the UCA with poly on a street car?

 

[fun4me]

To adjust pinion angle. I have a one-piece DS and don't want to trash my rear end, once the car is lowered.

 

[a50cobra]

jsnyng use to auto-x his car a bunch and eventually tore up his UCA. Here is a decent thread that gives some info: (there may be another, but you can find it if you look, I am sure)
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77101
Hope that helps.

 

[kevinatfms]

check the UMI roto joint for a compliant but solid adjustable rear UCA.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12_131&products_id=394

and no im not a fan boi of UMI, i just so happen to run a solid Edelbrock adjustable UCA.

 

[fun4me]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm split between the Metco UCA 2005-10 w/ the 11+ mount or the Whiteline UCA. I'm just not positive if the unconventional crush-sleeve adjustment mechanism will give me enough negative pinion on the Whiteline unit. Anybody use the Whiteline to adjust pinion to -2?

 

[Roadracer350]

It will do the job for you!

 

[fun4me]

It will do the job for you!

The Whiteline? Have you installed them? Any noticable NVH?

 

[Roadracer350]

I was going to use a solid rod end but then i heard horror stories about the vibration and noise from them. I have used poly stuff on different cars for different applications and after a while they got some squeaks and they would deteriorate after a bit. I am going to use the White line UCA. I am just waiting on the Watts Link to get here before I order the rest of the stuff due to it was a chunk of change. I guess its really all in preference. I like the look of the white line stuff because not only does it look good, they work and their beefy. I don't plan on babying my car so I want something to last. I may be totally wrong here tho. This is the first Mustang I have built but I have raced Motorcycles for years. If its a track only car then go with rod ends but if its a duel purpose car go with what you like the best. All the Adj UCA should get you where you want.

 

[Sharad]

This is what I'd recommend:

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-...ouble-adjustable-upper-3rd-link-mount-11.html

Adjustable UCA & Mount.

Then if you want to reduce bind, you can use this bushing in your axle:

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-8-inch-bushings-05.html

 

[fun4me]

Has anybody actually installed the whiteline UCA's, and used them to adjust pinion angle? It looks like a well designed unit, but I need to know that it will let me adjust my pinion angle to -2.

 

[BMR Tech]

First, I would like to say that using a Polyurethane bushing in the UCA on the S197 Chassis is not as "bad" as most people claim. (in regards to bind, deflection, etc)

Now, this is even more true when speaking of a Poly-bushed UCA that is designed properly.

The S197 3-Link style suspension is a completely different animal than the previous 79-04 "Triangulated" 4-Link.

Second, if looking for "more" articulation, it is my preference that a spherical/rod-end style bushing be used on the axle side, with a poly on the chassis side. This will provide quicker axle reaction, slightly reduced NVH (compared to all rod-end) and a set-up that is more durable than having Poly/Rubber on the Differential UCA mount.

As for the companies who manufacture the arms, there are going to be fans of all companies. You should probably give a few reps some phone calls to see which company that you want to pursue for your suspension needs.

Good Luck!

 

[Department Of Boost]

I’ve been running the Metco and LOVE IT! ZERO bind and I left the stock bushing in the rear end housing so I have zero NVH. You can also get any angle you want out of it.

On the subject of angle you may want to do some research on that. -2deg is not what you want to be running on anything short of a full blown drag car with tons of power and traction. For a street/track car you want to set the angles up so the trans and rear end flanges are perfectly parallel at ride height. On these cars that ends up being somewhere about -1.5deg coming off the trans and +1.5deg off the rear end.

Read this:

http://www.roddingroundtable.com/tech/articles/driveline.html

 

[BMR Tech]

gmitch, I am not on the same page as you when it pertains to pinion angle, and actually; neither is the roddingroundtable.

It is 100% fact that, even with rod-ends, the rear end will articulate under load.

My question to anyone who thinks you should set pinion angle at 0 is, would you rather have drivetrain bind pulling into a Sonic Drive-In.....or would you rather have bind while accelerating under full power for a 1/4 mile, or on a road course?

-2 may be a little much, but is a great starting point. Fortunately, we have done testing over the years to validate the common theory about pinion angles. If you don't use some sort of device to actually monitor the drivetrain angles while driving the car, you are simply guessing, which commonly leads to leaky pinions, bad seals, and noisy bearings.

The goal is very simple. You want the pinion and the crankshaft on the same plane under acceleration. I adjust my pinion angle off the back of the crank.

 

[sheizasosay]

If this is a daily driver with spirited driving...I wouldn't touch the UCA or the mount. Keep it stock. I would just get a DSS or PST CV jointed driveshaft so you don't have to worry about pinion angle. I've went from stock, to a BMR UCA Mount with a BMR Poly UCA to a J&M Extreme Joint UCA and all of them make noise. For a 99% street driven car do not change the UCA. You need to get a track day ASAP when the weather gets better.

 

[Department Of Boost]

gmitch, I am not on the same page as you when it pertains to pinion angle, and actually; neither is the roddingroundtable.

It is 100% fact that, even with rod-ends, the rear end will articulate under load.

My question to anyone who thinks you should set pinion angle at 0 is, would you rather have drivetrain bind pulling into a Sonic Drive-In.....or would you rather have bind while accelerating under full power for a 1/4 mile, or on a road course?

-2 may be a little much, but is a great starting point. Fortunately, we have done testing over the years to validate the common theory about pinion angles. If you don't use some sort of device to actually monitor the drivetrain angles while driving the car, you are simply guessing, which commonly leads to leaky pinions, bad seals, and noisy bearings.

The goal is very simple. You want the pinion and the crankshaft on the same plane under acceleration. I adjust my pinion angle off the back of the crank.

The only way I have been able to eliminate driveline vibration completely and at all speeds is to set the driveline angles up at "net zero". I've tested this up to 187mph.

Correct me if I am wrong here but if the trans tail flange is not parallel to the crankshaft something is not right???

 

[Sky Render]

If this is a daily driver with spirited driving...I wouldn't touch the UCA or the mount. Keep it stock. I would just get a DSS or PST CV jointed driveshaft so you don't have to worry about pinion angle. I've went from stock, to a BMR UCA Mount with a BMR Poly UCA to a J&M Extreme Joint UCA and all of them make noise. For a 99% street driven car do not change the UCA. You need to get a track day ASAP when the weather gets better.

This. I'm still trying to figure out why you're bolting all these high-end performance parts onto a car that is "99% street-driven." You're never going to even get close to driving the car hard enough to see the difference all those parts can make.