Best adjustable POLY UCA?

[OkieSnuffBox]

You definitely aren't doing anything special. Those of us who have done this multiple times are just trying to illustrate that all you are doing is making your daily driver suck more as a daily driver while not taking advantage of the higher handling capabilities.

I already exit the average off-ramp in 4th gear, well above the legal speed limit on the stock track pack suspension and 255 Pirellis.

So if you aren't tracking the car, a few of us are asking "why?"

 

[fun4me]

You definitely aren't doing anything special. Those of us who have done this multiple times are just trying to illustrate that all you are doing is making your daily driver suck more as a daily driver while not taking advantage of the higher handling capabilities.

I already exit the average off-ramp in 4th gear, well above the legal speed limit on the stock track pack suspension and 255 Pirellis.

So if you aren't tracking the car, a few of us are asking "why?"

Top of 4th? I appreciate your advice. I guess its one of those things I will have to learn the hard way. Either way I'll share my thoughts on the setup that I will eventually feel comfortable with. Who knows, maybe I'll track the car a few times just to see how hard I can push myself. Then you'll see me on here asking for brake and cooling upgrade advice.

 

[fdjizm]

All I want to do is get rid of that vibration, I could care less about high speed turning etc...

 

[Department Of Boost]

This. I'm still trying to figure out why you're bolting all these high-end performance parts onto a car that is "99% street-driven." You're never going to even get close to driving the car hard enough to see the difference all those parts can make.

Because race car.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Interesting, what type of bushings are you using?

Poly on the lower arms and the stock bushing in the upper rear end housing.

What are your rear spring rates?

I've run:

Stock 165F/142R

K- springs 173-239F/195-236R (progressive)

Coilovers at 350F/250R

Coilovers at 425F/375R

What type of angle finder are you using?

High dollar digital that measures down to a tenth of a degree.

Is the car on a drive-on lift, or jackstands?

Drive on lift.

I’ve run a “One Piece” driveshaft with the slip joint in it. No matter what I did, what angles I set it up at, how I shimmed the trans, etc I could not get it to run smooth from 0-150mph. I literally wore out the fasteners I had it on/off/adjusted so many times. No matter what was done the harmonics from the slip joint having slop could not be tuned around.

Then I went back to the stock driveshaft, no issues.

Then I ran a PST true one piece with a CV joint with “Net Zero” angles. Smooth as silk.

I am now running a T-56 Magnum with a “Old School” dual hook joint driveshaft (slip yoke in tailshaft) with “Net Zero” angles and it is also smooth as silk. I’ve been up to 170ish MPH with it.

One thing I have run across, and I don’t think most people are aware of it is the problem the S197’s have with driveline angles. When running the stock engine/trans mounts if you lower the car the trans flange ends up pointing to a spot slightly lower than the pinion flange (center to center). This makes for some convoluted angles and is probably a lot of the reason Ford has a billion CV joints in their shaft. No matter what you do with the pinion angle this can not be corrected 100%. The way to correct it is to put lower motor mounts in (.5-.75in lower) and shim the trans mount. This will get the trans flange pointed at a spot slightly higher than the pinion flange so you can plug “good” driveline angles into it. The more the car is lowered the bigger this problem becomes.

 

[Department Of Boost]

How many UCA do you sell a year due to people who lower their cars and suddenly get drivetrain/diff noises?

I don't want to argue, and agree 100% about CV's in todays world, but I can't help but share the info that I deal with every week-day of the year.

If someone wants to drop their car substantially, and not address the geometry change...that is fine! Those are the ones who I get calls from, the most.

I'm pretty sure 908SSP didn't say an adjustable upper arm was not needed.

908ssp, so are you calling gmitch a liar?

Why does his car have vibrations at any other setting than 0 degrees?

Where did he say this?

 

[Sky Render]

Because race car.

More like "Because 99% Street car."

The point we're trying to make is that if you aren't racing your car, there is very little noticeable difference between the different parts you're asking about, because you'll never be driving hard enough to notice a difference.

But, since you just want to be able to impress the local ricers in their hopped-up civics and 240SXs on Friday nights while hard parking, here's a list of what you'll want:

• KW Clubsport full coilover system with caster/camber plates
• Full BMR or Whiteline chassis components
• 13-inch-wide rear wheels with NT555R drag radials
• One-piece carbon-fiber driveshaft
• 6-point roll cage
• Ford Racing Stage-3 Whipple supercharger kit for 650 HP
• 250-shot of NOS with two big bottles

 

[sheizasosay]

Don't forget open headers.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Department Of Boost]

you'll never be driving hard enough to notice a difference.

Agreed. My Brembo car is good enough for anything resembling sane, and it's a sloppy mess.

Modding of any kind is rarely “smart”. But we all do it.

 

[RED09GT]

Well, my car developed a vibration cruising at 80 mph after the mild drop from steeda sport springs and got worse heading to 100. I put the stock springs back in the rear to see if it improved things and low and behold, the vibration was gone-but the car looked ridiculous.
I'm not upset spending what is less than a day's wage on the BMR upper and mount to try and correct the problem.
I do drag race the car though and I do give a fuck about a couple hundredths but even if I didn't, I wouldn't feel "taken" by a company that can fix my freeway speeds problem for $250 or whatever.

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2

 

[fun4me]

More like "Because 99% Street car."

The point we're trying to make is that if you aren't racing your car, there is very little noticeable difference between the different parts you're asking about, because you'll never be driving hard enough to notice a difference.

But, since you just want to be able to impress the local ricers in their hopped-up civics and 240SXs on Friday nights while hard parking, here's a list of what you'll want:

• KW Clubsport full coilover system with caster/camber plates
• Full BMR or Whiteline chassis components
• 13-inch-wide rear wheels with NT555R drag radials
• One-piece carbon-fiber driveshaft
• 6-point roll cage
• Ford Racing Stage-3 Whipple supercharger kit for 650 HP
• 250-shot of NOS with two big bottles

99% streetcar=3.6 days of racecar per year.

 

[Department Of Boost]

99% streetcar=3.6 days of racecar per year.

LOL!

 

[OkieSnuffBox]

99% streetcar=3.6 days of racecar per year.

Go ahead and waste your money.

We always need hard parkers to make fun of.

 

[fun4me]

Whats a hard parker?
Are you saying that a '12 brembo gt left the factory as good as possible? In my opinion, not quite. The dampers are not matched to the stiffer brembo springs and the car sits a bit to high, for starters. Not to mention all the pennies they pinched w/ cheapass parts, from the paint/clearcoat to the zip-ties on the shifter bushing, etc. Compared to a regular gt its almost night and day, because I was scared when I test drove a couple, crap brakes and tons of body roll.

Bottom line is, if I want to spend my hard-earned money, please help me do it responsibly.
As far as the original post, I'm goint to try the Metco UCA and will let you all know how it works out. Might have to put the stock DS on if I get a vibration.

 

[fdjizm]

Hard parker = Darren.
(A person who modifies their car, but never uses it as intended and would rather stare at it)

 

[OkieSnuffBox]

I can understand wanting to fix the stock 4x4 ride height.

I'd just do springs/dampers/relo brackets and maybe LCAs.

 

[fun4me]

I can understand wanting to fix the stock 4x4 ride height.

I'd just do springs/dampers/relo brackets and maybe LCAs.

I'd like to keep my dynotech DS, thats why the I'm looking for a adjustable UCA. But I'm starting to think the DS will have to go, or be replaced w/ a 1-piece w/ a C/V joint. Other than that I'm just adding sways to try and balance out the 11" rims out back.

 

[Department Of Boost]

I'm starting to think the DS will have to go.

This

 

[fun4me]

This

Will a 1-piece DS w/ a c/v joint work well enough? It still should be better to have a correct pinion angle(via UCA) even w/ the stock DS after a 1.5" drop, right? I'm don't have access to a garage to start messing w/ motor and trans mounts, seems easier just to upgrade(or downgrade the DS). Will it hurt anything to try driving w/ the current dynotech DS, or should I plan on doing everything in one shot? Since it looks like I'll have to take off the DS to measure the pinion angle anyway.

 

[sheizasosay]

This <