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crownaviation

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We will see, I have always been a fan of the OEM head gaskets. They say when you o-ring and use copper it is the best possible seal you can have. I guess I will find out.

Ready to pull my heads and get started soon.. Overall what are your impressios of the o-ring kit and final finish?
 

PNR Welding

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When I put my heads on I brushed both sides of the gaskets with permatex super 300. That will give it a better seal around thd water jackets.
Its messy but it works.


I wouldn't use it with OEM gaskets, but definately with the copper.
 
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toorbeenee

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I wouldn't use it with OEM gaskets, but definately with the copper.



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Why not sir? I have been using oem in my car for years now never had a problem. Went all the way to 22 psi. Could go more but didn't want to
 

05stroker

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Ready to pull my heads and get started soon.. Overall what are your impressios of the o-ring kit and final finish?

The Isky tool is very easy to use. The worst part was file fitting the ss wire.

When I put my heads on I brushed both sides of the gaskets with permatex super 300. That will give it a better seal around thd water jackets.
Its messy but it works.


I wouldn't use it with OEM gaskets, but definately with the copper.

Will do, I was thinking about using something.

Why not sir? I have been using oem in my car for years now never had a problem. Went all the way to 22 psi. Could go more but didn't want to

He was referring to the use of the sealant on stock gaskets.
 

BruceH

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When I put my heads on I brushed both sides of the gaskets with permatex super 300. That will give it a better seal around thd water jackets.
Its messy but it works.


I wouldn't use it with OEM gaskets, but definately with the copper.


I've read of people using the spray copper too. I should of done it with my big bore as the Cometic gaskets didn't have sealant. So far so good without it though.
 

05stroker

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I've read of people using the spray copper too. I should of done it with my big bore as the Cometic gaskets didn't have sealant. So far so good without it though.
I thought about that too. I actually have some in the garage. I feel like the Permitex would seal better though. I may test both on some sheet metal and see which on feels stronger.
 

BruceH

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I thought about that too. I actually have some in the garage. I feel like the Permitex would seal better though. I may test both on some sheet metal and see which on feels stronger.

I think the best thing is to have flat surfaces. In my case the gasket is mls which will form to a degree. I'd imagine that your copper is also going to deform with any minute surface imperfections.

My block was freshly decked to 28 or 38 ra iirc. It was within the Ford spec. I also checked the heads and they were under .001" everywhere. I've used heads with .0015" in a few spots and still not had problems up to 19psi.
 

travelers

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I thought about that too. I actually have some in the garage. I feel like the Permitex would seal better though. I may test both on some sheet metal and see which on feels stronger.

We use the copper spay on all the gaskets even on diesel engines with turbochargers.
 

05stroker

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We use the copper spay on all the gaskets even on diesel engines with turbochargers.

Good to know, thanks.

I think the best thing is to have flat surfaces. In my case the gasket is mls which will form to a degree. I'd imagine that your copper is also going to deform with any minute surface imperfections.

My block was freshly decked to 28 or 38 ra iirc. It was within the Ford spec. I also checked the heads and they were under .001" everywhere. I've used heads with .0015" in a few spots and still not had problems up to 19psi.

I don't know what my RA is. My heads where surfaced on the same machine that has always done my work and I have never had an issue. I have been to 24 psi on the stock gaskets though with no issues. I just felt with 20+ psi and 12:1 CR this time, the orings and copper gaskets couldn't hurt.
 

05stroker

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ive used the spray many times, no issues, but also dont know if it really helped anything,lol
I think I will use the Permatex super 300. Its seems the better choice.

I think the copper sray is for a better head seal while the Permatex is a better water jacket seal. With the copper gaskets and o-ring, I think the water jackets would be the weak link here. IMO
 
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05stroker

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Found out yesterday that I have one bent valve from the old bolt in the motor. Looks like it will be next weekend before the heads go back on. I'm glad I took the heads to have the seats and valves ground, or I may have not caught it.
 
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05stroker

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Started on the rear seat delete today, I was going to use a Scott Rod Fab unit, but I couldn't see buying something that nice just to cover it with carpet. I installed the bulkhead and package try with carpet on the back of the pieces. I did this for two reasons, first is to help with noise and vibrations, second was to make the truck look better sense I am using the same carpet in the trunk as the car. The trunk is almost done. Just need to trim the bottom piece where it meets the bulkhead and then use some spray adhesive to stick it in place. Im not sure if I am going to use the bottom piece that I made or not. I am thinking about making another one that is strait in the rear so the carpet will lay in smooth. Tomorrow I will finish the trunk and mount the fuel cell along with finishing the fuel lines to the cell. I also need to seal the bulkhead and package tray around the edges so I am sealed off from the trunk area. Here is where I am at for the day.



 
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05stroker

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Im trying to decide if I want to pull the dash to remove the heater/A/C unit. I really need to anyhow to install the new carpet correctly, but man it will be a job with all my aftermarket parts and wiring in there. I may just cut the carpet into the sides and wait to remove the HVAC unit when I do my 12pt later this year.
 

Department Of Boost

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Im trying to decide if I want to pull the dash to remove the heater/A/C unit. I really need to anyhow to install the new carpet correctly, but man it will be a job with all my aftermarket parts and wiring in there. I may just cut the carpet into the sides and wait to remove the HVAC unit when I do my 12pt later this year.

Just a word to the wise, unless you are building a 100% race car leave the heater/defroster in it. There is nothing worse than being out on a nice cool fall night and not being able to see.:tdown:
 

05stroker

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Just a word to the wise, unless you are building a 100% race car leave the heater/defroster in it. There is nothing worse than being out on a nice cool fall night and not being able to see.:tdown:

Good advice! Looking at it more this morning I am going to leave it for now and just cut in the new carpet without removing the dash. It can wait till I do the 12 pt cage. The dash removal is going to be a MAJOR job with the fuse box relocation and all the aftermarket wiring and gauges in my dash. Not to mention the MSD Dis4 boxes that are wired in there.
 
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