Think this is what killed my motor?

[Marble]

Can I leave my long tubes on when I pull the motor? I'm pretty sure I can.

Also, should I purchase an attachment of some type to attach to the engine lift?

 

[Marble]

Hopefully the picture is good enough to see the little piece of possible metal.

 

[Wes06]

I left my longtubes on when i pulled and replaced my motor.

and i picked up the engine leveler from auto zone to help tip the motor, extra useful with the longtubes on to clear the firewall

I also cut the crappy handle off the engine leveler and got a socket that fits on the nut to use a ratchet to turn the screw, much easier

 

[travelers]

Wow that looks like it's holding the valve partially open....

 

[RocketcarX]

Wow that looks like it's holding the valve partially open....

I feel like it looks like a glob of RTV in a small pool of oil

 

[Marble]

I feel like it looks like a glob of RTV in a small pool of oil

I actually think you are correct. But until I get the motor out I can't really get the correct angle to get it out.

And it looks open but I think it just a small pool of oil sitting at an angle.

 

[Heaten m90]

What was happening right before the failure occurred?

 

[Marble]

What was happening right before the failure occurred?

I was at the track. I used to drive the car regularly, not daily but at least a tank a month. It had been running just fine and then my first pass it was off by 5 mph and .5. Then the next pass was slower, and the next slower. Then the last pass it died.

I had been chasing belt issues and figured out the issue all along was a separating harmonic balancer. I replaced that, cured the belt issue then saw I had low oil pressure. I discovered metal in the oil and here I am.

I suspect that a possibility may have been a faulty harmonic balancer causing vibrations through the rotating assembly and over time, a bearing failed. Just a guess though...

 

[06JET]

That's probably a good guess.

 

[Heaten m90]

operating the engine with a damaged balancer could’ve certainly contributed to rapid component wear and possible engine failure. The engine is considered “neutrally balanced” however in regards to a positive displacement application, there are many variables to consider that you’ve yet to identify. In order to suggest a possible root cause, more facts would need to be introduced. I’ll list a few key one’s

-List engine component manufacturers and part numbers other than OEM (OEM would be inferred)
-list scheduled maintenance items vs operational service hours
-list fuel type/age spark advance and the RPM the failure occurred at. As well as the limiter setpoint and boost pressure To start
-Tensioner Specifications

Also when the slow down occurred did boost pressure maintain normal? Or was something else slowing the motor down or pulling timing?

 

[RocketcarX]

Also when the slow down occurred did boost pressure maintain normal? Or was something else slowing the motor down or pulling timing?

What could possibly pull timing beside the ECU?
How does retarding the timing increase engine damage?

 

[Heaten m90]

You know, like the car was knocking on the door and the ECM’s Protection subroutine Pulled timing out of it.....

 

[RocketcarX]

So you mean, "was it knocking?" Tf does a sub routine have to do with engine management?

 

[Heaten m90]

Well depending on knock sensor feed back to the engine’s ECM it could’ve been pulling timing due to pre ignition/detonation.
In this event engine power would’ve been reduced and the car would’ve logged a slower Trap speed.
I’m asking because the failure did not seem abrupt. I’m curious about the abrasions and stress raiser’s and stress flow lines...
Like a failed part with stress flow lines that crowd in transition zones would indicate an abrupt failure occurred other things like contact deformities and bent parts or indications of heat fatigue would be present if the failure was a result of harmonics

If you’re at the track you should always be running data logs Especially when abnormalities appear

Original question: Knock sensors are tunable functions that very with frequency. Vary Specific frequencies that are programmed into the engine control module

I feel like if the root cause was the balancer it would’ve failed more violently from what was mentioned this was a slow death.... so I’m a little confused
What reduced engine power? Heat friction or reduced timing, an air bubble, maybe even a converter pressing a thrust bearing played into it yada yada yada we need more facts

 

[RocketcarX]

^100% does not understand what tf he is talking about

The issue as stated was the defective dampener allowing belt slip, thus less boost = slower car.
His theory is that the balancer caused excessive bearing wear due to it not spinning in a circle but rather wobbling.

Why don't you try reading the threads you are responding to, Shep.

 

[EBABlacknChrome]

^100% does not understand what tf he is talking about


Lmao I was thinking the same thing!



Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Gabe]

I don't chew Big Red, so fuck YOU, Heathen!



(see his sig)

 

[Marble]

I think one of the main reasons it slowed was lack of oil pressure. Low oil pressure would prevent compete opening of valvesand hence no air in the cylinder.

operating the engine with a damaged balancer could’ve certainly contributed to rapid component wear and possible engine failure. The engine is considered “neutrally balanced” however in regards to a positive displacement application, there are many variables to consider that you’ve yet to identify. In order to suggest a possible root cause, more facts would need to be introduced. I’ll list a few key one’s

-List engine component manufacturers and part numbers other than OEM (OEM would be inferred)
-list scheduled maintenance items vs operational service hours
-list fuel type/age spark advance and the RPM the failure occurred at. As well as the limiter setpoint and boost pressure To start
-Tensioner Specifications

Also when the slow down occurred did boost pressure maintain normal? Or was something else slowing the motor down or pulling timing?

I'm not going to list all this stuff but I'll give a few:

Iron block
Stock stroke and bore
Diamond pistons
Manley rods
Kellogg crank
ARP hardware
Manley valves (pretty sure)
Comp cams and springs
MS109 fuel

I also considered a thrust bearing failure. But, like everything else we have discussed here, it's all guesses until the motor is out and parts are inspected.

And I was planning on pulling it today but I have to do some work so it might be delayed until next weekend.

 

[Pentalab]

I was at the track. I used to drive the car regularly, not daily but at least a tank a month. It had been running just fine and then my first pass it was off by 5 mph and .5. Then the next pass was slower, and the next slower. Then the last pass it died.

I had been chasing belt issues and figured out the issue all along was a separating harmonic balancer. I replaced that, cured the belt issue then saw I had low oil pressure. I discovered metal in the oil and here I am.

I suspect that a possibility may have been a faulty harmonic balancer causing vibrations through the rotating assembly and over time, a bearing failed. Just a guess though...

I notice a recuring theme over the last 5 years on some of these damaged engs. The oil pressure is either slightly lower than normal, or oil pressure progressively keeps going lower and lower, or just drops like a rock. It's one parameter that needs to be monitored closely. Which of course requires a real external oil pressure sensor and a designated gauge.... or signal fed to the aux input of an aeroforce gauge etc. If using something like an aeroforce gauge(s), then alarm thresholds can be set, and also used in conjunction with other parameters, like eng rpm, etc. IE: "IF rpm > xxx, and oil pressure is < xxx psi, bring in a visual and /or audible alarm".

At that point, you are at least alerted to something going amiss. In which case you might want to delve into it, takes things apart, before you destroy the eng, blower rotors etc.

 

[Heaten m90]

Please do share photos during the tear down!

Also I purchased an 18 volt stall horn from an F4 phantom fighter jet, as my oil pressure gauge also has a programmable relay output lol. I think That and a large MIL is definitely a good idea.