Dyno tomorrow any guesses?

AdamBorz

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Sorry if the wrong place for this, but had some issues with my '09 GT eating plugs, contacted Lito and we got that all worked out. Ended up being my Boost a Pump wasn't working correctly, but now is all good. Lito's tune is way better than the tune the car came with... no more stutter off idle. Anyhow, mods in signature (as told to me by previous owner).

I'm just going to rent the dyno and they'll let me tune myself with the HP Tuner. I was to basically increase rev limit and spark until the car stops making HP gains, then back it a tad.

I'll post some video and the results...

Oh, I'm running Mickey Thompson ET Streets, I read where the dyno will pretty much destroy them so already dropped off new Toyo Proxes and the speed shop is gonna install after the dyno run(s). I'm renting dyno for an hour....

Gonna find out definitively if the snow performance methanol injection will increase the HP level. I'm injecting pre- supercharger so some say it gets heated up and compressed and doesn't really do any good. I'm thinking it will increase compression, and adding methanol which should allow more spark etc.

Also, hope to have time to experiment with manifold volume... factory was 10.9, the tune car came with had it lowered to 4... Lito has it set way higher than factory.
 

AdamBorz

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Well since nobody wants to guess…. Going by my last SN95 which had all the same mods and was around 500 hp, this one seems faster and has more boost. I’m gonna guess at least 600 to wheels! I’ll post back
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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There are so many variables that can skew the results on a forced induction set up so it's going to be an educated guess. Mine is around 700rwhp, possibly 750 if there's a good DA and well-controlled IATs.
 

Pentalab

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A 2.6 litre supercharger and 20 lbs of boost is a bunch. Then add the meth injection, and it's a bunch more hp / tq.
I'm guessing 750-800 rwhp.

Water-meth injection (typ a 50-50 mix) injected pre manifold works superb. Typ a pair of 225 ml or bigger injectors are used in the inlet elbow, (after the TB and just before the blower intake). The water keeps things cooler. Meanwhile the meth is a cheap octane booster. Then you can greatly increase the spark advance = more hp/tq.

What do you mean by.....'manifold volume'.
 
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Pentalab

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I did an edit to my post...that u may or may not have seen.

"Water-meth injection (typ a 50-50 mix) injected pre manifold works superb. Typ a pair of 225 ml or bigger injectors are used in the inlet elbow, (after the TB and just before the blower intake). The water keeps things cooler. Meanwhile the meth is a cheap octane booster. Then you can greatly increase the spark advance = more hp/tq."

Tires like drag radials are a no-no on the dyno. Those will get destroyed on the dyno...and typ burst.
The water-meth injection will allow for cooler IAT's in the manifold, so the spark can be advanced somewhat. For every degree you can advance the spark makes a big difference in hp/tq..... up to a point of diminishing returns. The trick with water-meth injection is not to run out of water-meth.
 

AdamBorz

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So, unfortunately I could not get my methanol computer to kick on, I have a piezo siren hooked to it so I know it is running. I did manage to increase the hp ~30 rwhp by adjusting the AFR I was seeing it dip into the 10’s at WOT. I bumped the spark up by 2 and every time I did I got a HP increase. Ran out of time, never got the methanol working so stopped adding spark. So disappointed in myself, as soon as I left to drive home the damn snow computer meth started working ugh. It is a weird combination of pushing the 2 buttons for a certain amount of time. I think I’ll just but it on a on/off switch. At one point let the engine rev to 7,000 rpms to see where hp stopped
 

AdamBorz

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Just rechecked looks like I gained 35 hp just in tuning and I know there is more now that methanol is working.

Still, almost 19 psi at 6940 rpm’s and only 528 rwhp… kinda disappointing actually.

2009 mustang kennybell.jpeg

2009 mustang kennybell2.jpeg
 

AdamBorz

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I did an edit to my post...that u may or may not have seen.

"Water-meth injection (typ a 50-50 mix) injected pre manifold works superb. Typ a pair of 225 ml or bigger injectors are used in the inlet elbow, (after the TB and just before the blower intake). The water keeps things cooler. Meanwhile the meth is a cheap octane booster. Then you can greatly increase the spark advance = more hp/tq."

Tires like drag radials are a no-no on the dyno. Those will get destroyed on the dyno...and typ burst.
The water-meth injection will allow for cooler IAT's in the manifold, so the spark can be advanced somewhat. For every degree you can advance the spark makes a big difference in hp/tq..... up to a point of diminishing returns. The trick with water-meth injection is not to run out of water-meth.
I was going to run the 50/50 boost juice from snow but couldn’t get the damn thing to come on . I got it working now… I’ll have to dyno again. The methanol should allow me to increase spark and further lean out my AFR as the methanol will make it richer I believe. So maybe I’d be around 600 rwhp??
 

JC SSP

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Buddy you should be proud that’s good HP to the rear wheels. Also that flat lunar HP/TQ means that car will pull out in any gear. Congratulations.

On the water/methanol… I don’t run it on my boosted Audi because if I custom tune it for WM and something fails it will be catastrophic.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Buddy you should be proud that’s good HP to the rear wheels. Also that flat lunar HP/TQ means that car will pull out in any gear. Congratulations.
Something's still not right.
With 18-19psi of boost plus headers, P&P heads and SPR cams, he should be making way more power.
The boost curve is great so nothing wrong there.
The air:fuel ratio is pretty well dialed in at ~11.5 so nothing wrong there either.
Unless there's anything structurally wrong with the engine itself and it's losing compression (pretty unlikely), that leaves only one thing: very conservative ignition timing.
I'd be monitoring the IATs very closely. Perhaps the heat exchanger coolant pump isn't working properly, and I certainly wouldn't rely solely on water-meth injection to lower the IATs.
Get the IATs down, add more timing, and watch those HP/TQ curves go upwards.
 

StockishS197

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A 2.6 litre supercharger and 20 lbs of boost is a bunch. Then add the meth injection, and it's a bunch more hp / tq.
I'm guessing 750-800 rwhp.

Water-meth injection (typ a 50-50 mix) injected pre manifold works superb. Typ a pair of 225 ml or bigger injectors are used in the inlet elbow, (after the TB and just before the blower intake). The water keeps things cooler. Meanwhile the meth is a cheap octane booster. Then you can greatly increase the spark advance = more hp/tq.

What do you mean by.....'manifold volume'.
Manifold volume is a tune scalar that basically effects transient fueling delay. A higher MV means a longer delay in injecting fuel. A smaller volume means a shorter delay in injecting fuel.

It really shouldn’t change anything from a power perspective, just fueling transitions.
 

StockishS197

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Something's still not right.
With 18-19psi of boost plus headers, P&P heads and SPR cams, he should be making way more power.
The boost curve is great so nothing wrong there.
The air:fuel ratio is pretty well dialed in at ~11.5 so nothing wrong there either.
Unless there's anything structurally wrong with the engine itself and it's losing compression (pretty unlikely), that leaves only one thing: very conservative ignition timing.
I'd be monitoring the IATs very closely. Perhaps the heat exchanger coolant pump isn't working properly, and I certainly wouldn't rely solely on water-meth injection to lower the IATs.
Get the IATs down, add more timing, and watch those HP/TQ curves go upwards.
Agree here.

Another thought - are you running catalytic converters? Perhaps not enough air is getting out…
 

AdamBorz

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Something's still not right.
With 18-19psi of boost plus headers, P&P heads and SPR cams, he should be making way more power.
The boost curve is great so nothing wrong there.
The air:fuel ratio is pretty well dialed in at ~11.5 so nothing wrong there either.
Unless there's anything structurally wrong with the engine itself and it's losing compression (pretty unlikely), that leaves only one thing: very conservative ignition timing.
I'd be monitoring the IATs very closely. Perhaps the heat exchanger coolant pump isn't working properly, and I certainly wouldn't rely solely on water-meth injection to lower the IATs.
Get the IATs down, add more timing, and watch those HP/TQ curves go upwards.
The tune the car came with has way more aggressive spark tables. the tune in the SCT that came came with says 93octane and methanol. When I bought car it was eating plugs and the kid who owned it was frustrated. The BAP wasn’t working easy fix. That and 2 step colder NGK PLUGS.

Speed shop said they have seen great performance out of 50/50 methanol even pre-twin screw.

Everytime I added spork, hp went up.

Car is showing some knock but I didn’t see it in puffs of smoke out tail pipe (and around 3500 rpm none up top) shop was only running small fan. They said they watch for the puffs of smoke to see if real knock or not??? They do all the time so I’ll take their word.

So the guy I bought it from said the guy that built it said 650 to wheels. Could just be talk or maybe he meant to say 650 to crank then if so I’m close.

I did some hp tuner logs of the dyno runs if anybody wants to see them.

Least it made almost 19 psi of boost and stayed together to 7k rpms.

I think my tune is conservative….

IMG_5082.jpeg
 

AdamBorz

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Manifold volume is a tune scalar that basically effects transient fueling delay. A higher MV means a longer delay in injecting fuel. A smaller volume means a shorter delay in injecting fuel.

It really shouldn’t change anything from a power perspective, just fueling transitions.
After a WOT run when the fuel cuts out (DFCO) it stutters coming back on. I mentioned it to Lito. Maybe that is because of the 25 he has it set at??

He also has DFCO set to instant so the AFR goes super lean even between shifts. Pops on slow down I don’t like it gonna change it back eventually to way it was.
 

AdamBorz

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Agree here.

Another thought - are you running catalytic converters? Perhaps not enough air is getting out…
Cats are on but gutted. I did notice that the mufflers aren’t flowmaster they are flowtech… maybe they don’t flow good enough? Headers and x pipe are Kooks
 

AdamBorz

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Buddy you should be proud that’s good HP to the rear wheels. Also that flat lunar HP/TQ means that car will pull out in any gear. Congratulations.

On the water/methanol… I don’t run it on my boosted Audi because if I custom tune it for WM and something fails it will be catastrophic.
If I drive with a light foot I don’t get into any boost. I have the methanol set to come on at 3psi and max at 10. So if it would go out with a methanol tune I would just drive normally (is that possible lol)
 

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