Cams/heads, or go straight for blower?

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I've been considering getting cams, heads, and intake for my 1st gen 5.0, but I don't know how much that'll cost. I've seen prices range from 2k for parts and labor all the way to 4k. Is it just a better idea to go straight for a blower and later get cams since I'm shooting for 650-720 whp? I don't want massive power - anything around 700 is more than enough. I know stock 5.0s with a blower can do 700whp with little to no issues, getting heads feels like a waste if I don't do 800+. Don't want to get heads and not make the most of them, y'know.
 

Midlife Crises

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If you intend on going with a PD blower don’t spend money on cams, Manifold or cold air intake. You'll just replace those parts again when you install the blower. Your heads should be fine also.
 

JerryZ

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I am deep into my MLC, so here is my thoughts:
1. IMO, if you're doing anything less than around 800whp, forget the head mods. The stock heads flow extremely well.
From my research, the gen1 will live fine with anything up to around 600whp and that is probably a bit conservative.
2. again, IMO, if you want any more than 400-420whp, for sure a blower. I agree that a PD blower is the way to go. Be sure and add the opg gear stuff needed w/gen1.
3. With or without the blower, I recommend long tube headers. Best bang for the buck mod IMO whatever brand you settle on. Once you install the blower, the headers will only make the whole package work better with more hp at any boost level.
I actually have forgone the blower plans, but the blower research told me more than my earlier thoughts were to go with long tubes regardless of any additional mods. I have been working more toward an autocross setup and put most of my efforts into suspension mods for handling. Hope this helps. Cheers!
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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My advice would be go straight to a PD blower and keep the engine internally stock. An aim of 630-650rwhp with up to 550rwtq would be realistic given that anything above that would test the detonation threshold of 93 octane pump gas.
 

JEWC_Motorsports

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If i was to do it all over again id either go Whipple or the new Edelbrock tvs system. Definitely need to add opg's and crank gear while you are in there. Exhaust depends on what your emissions are like in your area.
 
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I am deep into my MLC, so here is my thoughts:
1. IMO, if you're doing anything less than around 800whp, forget the head mods. The stock heads flow extremely well.
From my research, the gen1 will live fine with anything up to around 600whp and that is probably a bit conservative.
2. again, IMO, if you want any more than 400-420whp, for sure a blower. I agree that a PD blower is the way to go. Be sure and add the opg gear stuff needed w/gen1.
3. With or without the blower, I recommend long tube headers. Best bang for the buck mod IMO whatever brand you settle on. Once you install the blower, the headers will only make the whole package work better with more hp at any boost level.
I actually have forgone the blower plans, but the blower research told me more than my earlier thoughts were to go with long tubes regardless of any additional mods. I have been working more toward an autocross setup and put most of my efforts into suspension mods for handling. Hope this helps. Cheers!
I'm planning on doing full custom exhaust on a flex system because 85 isn't too hard to find in my area. I'll have to do some research on the different blowers from VMP, Whipple, or Edelbrock, but I wanted to do cams before putting on a blower. Will there be any issues with doing that?
 

retfr8flyr

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Cams are a waste of money if you are going with a blower at the HP levels you are talking about. Blower cams do not work well NA and vice versa. Give Jason at DOB a call https://www.s197forum.com/forums/department-of-boost.175/ he can fix you up with a great setup and save you lots of money. I think he is having a group buy right now also.
 

tjm73

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If funding isn't a limiting factor....blower.
 
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Thanks for all the advice, I'll go straight for a blower then. Do the usual, chain system, fuel system, and then blower. Ofc it's not something I'll do straight away, I want to first improve the suspension system, short throw, better clutch to handle the power, and maybe driveshaft. I'd rather not blow the trans or become one with a tree with all that power.
 

Pentalab

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I would toss the oem LSD and get a real one...and perhaps a watts link....like a whiteline. VMP sells both versions of the tried and proven Detroit Eaton tru-trac. With that much tq/hp, get some real tires and rims, like 305/315 rears on 11" wide rims....and 285mm tires on the front, on at least a 10" wide rim. Don't forget to supercharge the brakes while you are at it. Air ducts for the front brakes are cheap, and air is free, so why not use it. Don't forget the entire suspension setup, front to back. With that much power, it has to all be carefully thought out, or you are gonna be out of control..and fast like. It will be a handful at the best of times.
 

DieHarder

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If you're going to do a Watts Link you might want to check out Cortex or Griggs. Unlike the Whiteline both (Cortex/Griggs) are adjustable, same retail price and better made IMHO. They also offer Torque Arms which will greatly improve handling and straight line grip in high horsepower applications.
 

tjm73

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Pentalab

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A watts link is needlessly complex and heavy when a properly setup panhard bar allows for less than 1/16" of lateral movement. Tire deflection is a bigger deal than lateral axle movement.

https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Good-Handling-Is-Fun-The-Magical-MM-Panhard-Bar.aspx

https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Busting-the-Myth-of-the-Watts-Link.aspx

Nonsense. Vorshlag did the video,(adjustable PHB, tweaked correctly, to center both rears) but with go pro camera mounted just aft of the driver's side top of fender / wheel well....angled down on top of tire. You can clearly see the top of the tire either sticking way out past the fender, or sucked inboard...completely out of sight...when he is flying around corner's. Any tire deflection is at the bottom of the tire, where rubber meets the asphalt.

With the whiteline watts link installed, and rear tires centered correctly, repeat the same video, and top of tire stays put.

I went from oem PHB to the adjustable BMR PHB, since my driver's side rear tire poked out 3/8", once lowered 1.25". Then swapped to the whiteline watts link. WL watts link only has 2 x adjustment holes, normal ride height, and lowered. Hit bumps flying around corner's, and you sure as hell can tell the difference asap. With any phb, hit bumps on a corner, and suspension gets compressed on one side, pushing against the PHB..which of course is bonded to the axle at it's other end.... which kicks the axle out a bit, causing the dreaded...'skittering' effect.

Dead flat smooth surface, sure. the PHB is probably more than ample. I had the watt link installed simultaneously with the eaton tru-trac....done on same day. That combo is superb.
 

tjm73

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Nonsense. Vorshlag did the video,(adjustable PHB, tweaked correctly, to center both rears) but with go pro camera mounted just aft of the driver's side top of fender / wheel well....angled down on top of tire. You can clearly see the top of the tire either sticking way out past the fender, or sucked inboard...completely out of sight...when he is flying around corner's. Any tire deflection is at the bottom of the tire, where rubber meets the asphalt.

How was the bar installed? Like OEM with the chassis side high and the axle side low? The bar needs to be level at rest. If it's not the arc created through compression/rebound will do what you describe.

Not that any of this disagreement really matters.
 

Pentalab

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How was the bar installed? Like OEM with the chassis side high and the axle side low? The bar needs to be level at rest. If it's not the arc created through compression/rebound will do what you describe.

Not that any of this disagreement really matters.
Except for the steeda PHB version, which is height adjustable at both ends, the BMR, FRPP and most other adjustable PHB's are low at driver's side axle end of phb.... and higher at chassis side/pass side.
The only saving grace is... with the car lowered 1.25" at the rear, the phb is now 1.25" lower at chassis side / pass side. You are correct though, the phb needs to be dead flat level..at rest..or close to it.

The WL watts link weighs dick really. 2 x short chromolly arms vs one long phb. The oem phb brace is tossed, and replaced with a wl chromolly tubular brace. The WL rear differential cover is a lot of aluminum though. It's damned near 5/8" thick, where it bolts to differential. Portions of the cover are very thick, to take the 4 x 60mm long bolts. 5th bolt is only 40mm long. I got mine years ago, when the price was reasonable, summit had em on sale at 20% off too, which made it more reasonable. A few years later, I saw the steeda version, that has the adjustable height brackets at each end, so the phb can be a lot more level. Dunno anybody that uses or owns that version.

The hd BMR version was nice though, the adjustable portion is CM, and resides inboard on the pass side, easy to slide under the car,and with a helper, tweak the phb, so the rear tires are centered.
 

RED09GT

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Don't get caught in the hype about needing blower cams for a supercharged car.

There is a lot of marketing and regurgitated forum parroting opinions about why blower cams are needed and almost zero evidence of them actually providing substantial benefit.
Watch some Richard Holdener content on Youtube-he doesn't push product, he just tests things.
 

Midlife Crises

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Tell me why not...
In a nutshell, the valve timing requirements are different when your pounding air in the engine at two or three atmospheres. It is not as important to open the intake valve early and the exhaust can be left closed a little bit longer. Valve overlap will run rough and waste fuel and air out the exhaust until the engine is wound up enough to overcome it. There are several blower cams on the market that open the intake at or after TDC. You don’t find that characteristic in NA cams. So any old cam doesn’t make a blower cam.
 

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